Could This Be Your Next Power Conditioner?


Here is a cure to all your dirty AC woes. TWL has been preaching this for years. Does he know something we don't?

http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/h00114.asp

It does make for some very interesting reading. Post your comments, if any. Happy listening.
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Okay, I'll try to answer all the questions.

First, the best thing to do is to start out by going to websites that sell solar power stuff. Many of these websites have alot of educational information that is available for you to read online, for free. They are not books, but when you read enough of these small "blurbs" about how to "size your array" or "build your battery bank", or "select a charge controller", you come away with a fairly good idea of how to set up a system. You always work backwards to determine your power need, by adding up all the amp/hours needed by all the appliances that you use, for the typical amount of time per day that you will use them. For example, a fridge uses maybe 1kw of energy while running, but it only runs for a certain number of minutes per hour. So if it runs 20 minutes per hour, it will use only 333watts/hour. At 120VAC that is about 3 amps/hour, and at 12 volts it is about 30 amps/hour. Then multiply times 24 hours and you have the "daily usage" of the fridge. If you are using a 12v system, you have to use the 12v amp/hour figures by mulitiplying all 120VAC amp/hour figures by 10, like I did above. Do the same for all electrical items in the house, and multiply the total times 1.2 to account for normal losses. That is the total amount of power you need to supply each day.

Then you need to find your "insolation" rate, which is the daily # of hours of full sun per day, in your area. There are insolation charts on many of these alternative energy websites. If you are in a zone with 5 hours average insolation, then you need to divide your total daily usage requirement by 5 hours, and that gives your total panel power requirement, but it is in amp/hours. Since panels are rated in watts, you need to multiply the amp/hours by 12(for a 12v system) and that will give you the total wattage for the panels that you need. If you need a total of 10kw per day, and divide that by the 5 hours of avg. daily insolation, you get 2kw. You'll need to buy 20 100 watt panels to handle that requirement, for that example.

The other stuff is about the same level of difficulty in calculations. The info is on these alternative energy websites. It is a technical subject, but if you want to do it, you must learn about it.

You can't go by the square footage of the house, nor any general guidelines. It has to be calculated at exactly what your appliances require. I can tell you now that anybody using electric heat, electric stoves, and central air conditioning is going to get "sticker shock" when they find out how much it will cost to handle their normal energy needs. This is why VERY energy efficient appliances must be used, and this means specialized appliances that are not bought in normal stores, but are bought from alternative energy outlets that use FAR less than anything that is called "energy efficient" in the department stores. Moving to gas cooking, gas hot water heating, and/or wood/coal/fireplace heat is a good choice. Central air conditioning is either going to be very expensive to buy panels to run it, or you can use a standby generator to handle the air conditioning requirement. This is commonly done by solar power enthusiasts. The A/C usage is so high that it is prohibitively expensive to use solar panels for it. The generator is good for this purpose, because it costs alot less than the solar panels needed for the same purpose. But you have to feed it gas/diesel.

If you remain connected to the grid, then alot of this complexity can go away, because you can always use the power grid to "back you up" when you over-use the energy, or for when you need additional energy to run air conditioning or whatever.

Much depends on what result you want, and how much it will cost. That is why I always recommend doing a certain portion of your needs with solar, to get your feet wet, and then moving into a more complete system, if you decide you want to do that. For somebody looking to get off the grid, and achieve total energy independence like I did, there will be compromises in your lifestyle, or you will spend a hell of alot of money. Each person needs to decide what is the best situation for him and his family. Most wives and children do not adapt well to this. They want to use as much as they want, whenever they want, and also like to leave the lights on, take long hot showers, cook all day, etc. This is a no-no when you are producing your own electric. It is not unlimited.
Sorry Twl, I didn't mean to have you become inundated with questions re: solar.

With all do respect folks, if everyone refers to the link I provided, and searches through the COMPLETE article, you will find enough links and info to bury you all for days. I was "cross-eyed" after reading through some of the stuff. Especially the links by the U.S. gov.

And I'm starting to worry about Twl. If we start robbing him of his "listening time", there's no tellin what'll happen!
Don't worry, I'm a fast typist. And I'm warming up my tubes right now for a Sunday afternoon listening session. Oh yes, a pair of sweet 45's sound great on battery power! And the whole amplifier only draws 3.8 amps @12vdc.
Nice thread. I use a 1k watt solar system for a remote scientific research station that I run. The key as Twl mentions is efficient appliances and electronics and using as many DC electronics as possible. Conversion of DC from solar cells to AC just throws a significant amount of power away and is silly since most electronics (ac sync turntables excepted) internaly convert AC wall current to DC current anyway.
Solar radiation to DC current -85%
DC to AC conversion -20%
AC back to DC conversion -20%

There are really some great products around that are allowing conversion to DC only systems. The absolute easiest was using a 12v computer power supply. A screw driver and 10min later I was using 40% less power on a desktop PC. The one application that no one seems to talk about is RVs and Boats . These are normaly DC systems anyway, so no reason not to throw some panels on the roof and get some free energy.

The easy way to do something is to install a solar water pre heater. Mounts on the roof and your current hot water heater draws a reserve that has already been heated to 140F or so by the sun (plus tax deductable in a few states).
where (until the addition is built onto the house) I am planning to situate my stereo system. Not to mention that the dutch barn has good dimensions (10x14x19) and I can acoustically treat it without bothering anyone in the house!
I found that Honda has some 1-3,000 watt generators that are "super quiet" (58db noise at 3 metres distance, full power; 48db, same distance, 1/4 power [and for 20 hours!]) and not overly expensive ($1800). Living in the Northeast, after last winter (snowstorms, fallen power lines, etc.), it occurred to me that I could both have my cake and eat it, too. To wit: if there's a power failure, I can plug the house into the generator for essentials: lights, portable heater, refrigerator, until the power is restored, and all on 3 gallons of gas! Otherwise, I can listen to music completely isolated from the house (only 25 feet away!).
The generators are inverted, so they work on computers as well.
Just got off the phone with the Honda salesman and decided to look into a thread that addresses it and found this! Thanks for a great thread.