Simple Question. Simple Answer?

Dekay, oh yeah this sounds all so simple! First, you oughta stay away from sharp objects. ;) I really don't understand why you went through all of these contortions; you should have just left the flat metal jumper on. Nevertheles, I know that the preferred method is to replace the metal with good quality _short_ jumper. It seems that you did that with the 4VS. Geez, why didn't you take the whole damn thing apart and solder wire on the connectors? I'm not familiar with the gauge of or anything else about Kimber 4VS, but the "standard" with what you have and seem to be attempting is to use 8TC for LF and 4TC for HF. That's essentially what I used to do, and I keep those cables for another setup. Then, in your last post you speak of a 45' length..... now wtf is _that_ all about. Anyway, I wonder if you would truly notice any sonic differences by all these different jumper methods. Carl did make some good sense concerning oxidation, but I don't think you need to worry about that. God only knows why you tried the first thing you did; I sure wouldn't do that with my Cardas Golden whatever. [See DK, I'm not thinking too clearly now?] It would just seem that logic dictates that you explain what you really want to accomplish in order to have it so well thought out/planned as you indicated. Bottom line, you did a great job of confusing me! Just watch out for sharp objects, dude!

Don't want to get too far off point, but does anyone know if there is an advantage when doing double biwire to starting from single set of spades at amp end, vs. just using two sets of wires, both connected to one set of binding posts at amp end, then going to the respective LF or HF terminal at speaker end. Using two seperate sets of wires would help me set up some cables I am trying, they each have 12 strands of 20 g and getting 24 strands into a single spade would be difficult. Thanks in advance.

SF: I basicaly just did a doughnut today and ended up where I started. I screwed up the end of one of my cables and decided to make a jumper out of the the same cable instead of stripping another 3" off the end and threading it throught the LF post on up to the HF post which acted like a one piece jumper (one continuous wire). Sonicaly either way is the same to my ears (I have done it and now I know). Either way is also a big improvement over the stock plate jumpers that were supplied with the speakers. I hopefully will take it up a notch by bi-amping, but the catch is that I have not yet gotten the blinkin amps (not available in this country anymore), but I will. In the meantime I would still like to take it up another notch and with the sound advice in this thread I can now justify picking up a second pair of cables to try out a shotgun bi-wire setup. The new cables will not go to waste regardless of what I do with either system. I did not get this part of it before and admit to be incredibly dense on this point. Now I will re-read the old bi-wire threads with gusto . Swampwalker my usual feeling is - forget the spades and use bare wire. But on other hand I just crammed 8 bare wires (not certain of the gage) into a single hole post and it was a challenge. It might be more feasible if you used a split round receptacle clamp on spade to corral all of those wires. I have a pair of Kimber bananas with this type of end (it's a ring with a break in it so that it can be expanded and compressed). Oh, and the 45 feet is 4 ten foot lengths plus enough left over to hang myself.

Dekay, You could purchase silver cable 99.999% from homegrown, to use as a jumper. They would know what to advise you to purchase and the best way to do it. Larry

Yes, Homegrown, or a jewelry supply house for silver. Silver wire is $8.95/ounce for 4 - 18 gauge. $9.25/ounce for 20 or 22 gauge. Just for reference, 1 ounce of 10 gauge wire would be 2 feet, 12 gauge would be 3 feet(both certainly more that what would be required for jumpers). I don't think you could do any better than that route.