Isolation vs. Absorbtion

Redkiwi, Sorry I am confused again. I think this thread is great. Please clarify this for me... You said don't MDF if you can at all help it, but if you must use MDF (as I have to in my MGD JustaRacks) then use hard damped cones between the MDF and the component? Or assuming that the MDF shelf is still in the system, can you put a shelf like the Neuance on top of the MDF separate them (Neuance shelf and MDF shelf) by hard damped cones and then use the e-a-r feet between the Nuance shelf and the component? Is this close to what you have found? - Dan

Hi Red: No I have been unable to print their catalog and order form (I keep getting an error message) and cannot read the download on my screen even using an electronic magnifier. I need to just order by phone and have been too lazy to do so. I can make out $3.25 on the page and assume that these are the ones that you are using. I would need a set of "light weight" ones for the DAC and a couple sets of 20+ pounders so that I can try them out on my player and speakers. I have pretty much decided not to "top weight" my components as I do not like the decrease in harmonics that I seem to get with this approach, though I am curious about the Mapleshade method of applying the weight through tiny contact areas and may try this out with some DIY stuff before I say never to this method. I had thought of using BB's under flat weights for this test. I will pick them up (the EAR's) soon though. Right now I have too many changes taking place (new outlets, new tubes and a PC on the way) to evaluate isolation devices. I was just talking to DanVet and mentioned something (that I have never noted in the forum) that might interest some. When I test isolation components I switch them out while music is playing (just be careful and keep the player level if that is what you are working on - I would not attempt this with a turntable, LOL) and am able to hear the changes that take place right away. I use two narrow pieces of wood (along the sides of the component) to elevate it while I am changing the sandwich underneath. I also use this method when I am clearing/isolating cables and PC's and can hear the music "clear up" as I fuss with the cables. I prefer to do this on my own with the support blocks so that the equipment is not dropped (I then have full control over the situation). This would not of course work in cases such as the Nuance shelving in which it takes many days to settle but seems to work fine and expedite the process with footers, cones and more stable platforms such as Maple. The pods that I use have already been well squished and I would probably want to do the same to the E.A.R. feet before using this method. I can usually evaluate changes (to my satisfaction) within a half hour or so by playing different source material, I don't use special "test" CD's.

Dan: I have tried what you are describing with Pods (instead of EAR's) and Maple on top of MDF and it worked fine. You have to start somewhere, and work yourself up, which is in your case an MDF shelf.

Thanks DeKay. Good to know that I will not have to replace my MDF with other material. So did you spike the maple directly into the MDF or did you use a plate of some kind to keep the spikes from embedding themselves? - Dan

Hi Dan: I used soft footers (Vibrapods) between the MDF (shelf) and the Maple platform and then brass cones between the Maple and the CD player. So, from bottom to top it was: MDF/Pods/Maple/cones/player. Red Kiwi has been having good results with the EAR soft footers which I would also like to try out under the Maple. Since that setup I killed my MDF shelf and have the player resting on my cabinet itself which is constructed out of Persimmon wood. Both setups sound pretty much the same to me so I guess that the soft footers are doing their job well. Different soft footers will sound, well, different. The Vibrapods are $24.00 for a set of four and the E.A.R's are $3.25 each from what I can discern from the Parts Connection catalog on line. If you happen to have a Maple cutting board handy (even if it is only 3/4") you can get started for not a lot of money. I am using the least expensive Mapleshade brass cones which are $38.00 for a set of three and their most expensive set of cones is $110.00 per set. I will eventually try the $110.00 set (which another member is having good results with) on my player. I am using the cones on my DAC right now as well. Even if you only start out with soft footers and a platform on which your player rests on it's stock feet you will still here a nice improvement in the sound much like as if you have upgraded your player, which you have just done in a way. The first time I placed my player on a Vibrapod/MDF platform, I was hooked and the subsituted Maple platform sounded even better prior to adding cones to the equation.