Question for DIY people: Butcher block shelving??


I picked up the "Spar" maple butcher block from IKEA the other day. (Link to the butcher block is here) => http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10101&storeId=12&langId=-1&productId=15241

I am going to use these blocks to replace the cheap MDF shelves on my welded steel Target rack. I believe the blocks are unfinished. They are not solid chunks of maple -- there is some hollowness inside.

My question is, what should I do with them next to increase their effectiveness as shelves and to increase their durability? Should I oil them? Put a coat of lacquer on them? Glue cork and/or rubber to the underside?

I will be placing them under a variety of components (Cd player, amp, power conditioner), so I could customize each block to suit the component it sits on.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!!!! Thanks!!!!
marc_dc
Nsgarch is correct. These are constructed of beech, which is an open grain, 'soft' hardwood, and does not share many sonic characteristics with solid maple.

If you've already taken the beech shelves, you can salvage them by drilling a suitable sized hole in what will be the underside, fill them with silica sand and plug the hole with with a chunk of dowel and some wood glue. Sand, stain to match and lay on a couple coats of Minwax wipe-on poly. Voila! Instant shelves...
I am somewhere in the middle with the above comments, having experimented with the very product you have under consideration. No, it's not maple, it's beech, but it ain't cheap beech, it's heavy and solid - try drilling through it.

The idea of several suitable-size holes on the underside filled with silica is a good idea.

Even stock, it is a damn sight better than what is passed off these days, in a lot of cases as MDF.

My advice (FWIW) is real rock maple, edge glued butcher block from http://www.johnboos.com or http://www.perfectplank.com or http://www.timbernation.com
I'm with Slipknot1, the BoosBlocks are what I'm using (on top of certain shelves, depending on component)
I coupled them to my 3/4" acrylic shelves with a dab of Mortite (rope caulk) on each corner and one in the middle, then set the block in place and pressed it down, till it was firm and even, then let it set up.
If you want to stop vibration Beech, Maple, Oak, a bowling alley...all of these are way too hard. Unfortunately there are several schools of thought but I would recomend using 1/2 inch mdf glued with 1/2 or 3/4 spacer and glue edge strips all around and put sand on the inside.

They will be heavy, but they will stop vibration.