wilson watt puppy 7 help and suggestions


Hi,

I own wilson watt puppy 7 speakers and recently acquired the lamm 2.2 hybrid monoblock amps.

Two questions.....First, what does wilson mean when it says the impedance for the puppy 7 is a nominal 4 ohms? Is there a difference between 4 ohms and nominal 4 ohms?
I ask because the lamm amp has a switch for whether the speakers are above or below 6 ohms.

Second Question is whether anyone has switched the tuning ports of the puppy 7's when going from solid state to tube. Here, the amp is both solid state and tube albeit only 1 tube. Stay with the 100-400 ports which is factory setting or not?

Thanks

Michael
karmapolice
I agree with Cytocycle's recommendations wholeheartedly except one: you should listen to both ports with the Lamms and determine which sounds best by your ears. As a long time Wilson afficionado and current W/P7 owner I learned long ago that the ports tune the "instruments" far more to the tastes of the listener than to the specifications of associated amplification.
Khrys: I agree but forgot to mention that I owned Lamms (M2.1 and M1.1's)before I switched to Theta Citadel and the solid state port sounded better. Your time will be better spent adjusting (adding and removing spacers on the Wilson footers will change the bass based on the room inteactions) Remember to change out to the correct Back spike on the Watt since you adjusting the height of the speaker. Of course always put the speaker in the Zone of Neutrality using the WASP positioning method first.

Changing the back spike on the Watt plays a huge role in the mid bass sound. Refer to you wilson manual for both of these adjustments.

Karmapolice: it's been awhile since I changed the shorting plug but thanks for the correction.
I have high ceiling (although I have treated them) and wood floors (albeit a few rugs) and so the room is real lively. I am using two spacers.

I would be curious now that I have treated walls and thrown down some rugs whether maybe one spacer would suffice and hey no even sure I have correct back spike.

I would love to play around with these things but want to find someone local here who might give me a hand in that endeavor. I am open to bribing someone local and am looking for victim/volunteers in a posting I placed at audiogon and audio asylum.

I would hate to pay a professional to do that because they would charge probably $500 to come over for a few hours and who knows if they even really know the watt puppy 7 process.
nominal impedance means average impedance and can often be misleading because it can dip below the nominal rating...
i just went through the setup process all by my lonesome, w/ WP6s in a 15*11*8 room (speakers on 11' wall).

take a look at audioasylum faq, as you'll see speaker setup methods by Wilson (WASP), Audio Physics, Cardas, and Rives.

IME, rives is the best approach. the most important factor is to get the distance from the front wall to the speaker correct. then play w/ sidewall distance, and finally toe-in. takes 1 day of very careful listening, but the results were head & shoulders above what i had earlier (via WASP).

also, spikes / spacers do 2 things:
1) change height of tweeter / mid alignment w/ ear
2) decouple bass from floor (cleaner bass, but less of it)

#2 is accomplished w/ any elevation, and #1 is ameliorated w/ correct WATT spike. leave the WATT spike for the very end.

(none of the spike / spacer variables should factor into the speakers' location however)

good luck.
rhyno