Building a new room

Power outlets can cost a fortune, but if you look for 'hospital grade' outlets they will be better, and often they cost about 20% of those in the audio trade. Also, you mentioned being stuck with current cables for the speakers. Please consider a trip to HomeDepot and get some 12 gauge speaker wire, its very inexpensive and I bet you will find it much better then what you are using. Ceiling should be acoustical tile, rough pebble finish will tame resonances that a flat, sheet rock ceiling will produce.

Don't worry too much about outlets they can always be changed later. Concentrate on the things that must be installed before the walls are closed in.

Such as, install at least 3 dedicated outlets without any junctions or tie ins. Use at least 10 gauge wire.
You can then install a line for other outlets and a line for overhead or side wall lights.
I also ran cat 7 cable and cable TV and telephone jacks.
If the room may also be used for home theater run the best speaker cable you can afford from the front of the room to the back and sides.

Yes, use insulation inside the walls but don't just butt the 2x4 tight against the concrete walls, leave a gap.

On the ceiling, I used 2 layers of 5/8" drywall, the second layer is glued to the first before final screwing. I wish I had double layered the drywall walls but you may want to.

Buconero117,
I plan to use Albert Porter's Ports which are cryo Hubble made to his specs. As far as speaker cables are concerned, I have a different view point than you - so lets not go there. I currently have a drop-in ceiling that the previous owner did in the basement, but I want the ceiling higher. I will try to research on acoustical tile.

Ozzy,
My question is - when people have dedicated outlets, do they use them to directly connect the device (amp, preamp, cd player) to the outlets? I plan to use the outlet to connect my power conditioner and then the devices into the power conditioner. I have looked at a youtube video of MIT Z-Duplex, which is a in-wall power conditioner. It shows how the noise is cleaned when using that. I don't know how it would affect the performance of the amps when plugged into such outlet.
The room already has a home theater wires in the front and back. I plan to put a dummy box on those corners and keep them ready if I move in future. As of now - no interest in home theater. Yes, considering the CAT5 cables. What type of insulation do you suggest - regular fibreglass or other alternatives?
2 of my walls - I plan to double layer using Green Glue. I had not thought about this for the ceiling. I read that you have to use isolation clips to decouple the joist and drywall for the ceiling to be really soundproof. So I am not sure if the 2 layers in the ceiling would help me. Most of my listening is done in the night when kids are in bed.

I did look up more on the forums and find that people generally plug a power conditioner into one of the dedicated outlets to connect their digital sources. But they connect the amplifiers directly into the wall outlets. Are you not bothered by the power surge?

Milpai,I am using one dedicated line with my PS P10 power conditioner that has just my digital components plugged into it. That also includes video items.

The 2nd dedicated line is for my Pass Labs Amp. And the 3rd is for my 3 JL Audio F-113 subs.
My outlets are all the Furutech GTX Rhodium and the outlet frames/covers are the Oyaide. (I think they look better than the Furutech).

I used some of the sonex insulation in the ceiling , but I also used regular fiberglass in the ceiling and walls. I installed a exterior steel door frame.

The music is muted outside of my room, but the bass still radiates to the upper floors.
I have read that having a separate ceiling that does not touch the ceiling joist are the way to go to eliminate the bass transfer.

On the question of power surge, I installed a whole house power surge protector in the breaker box.