i have since placed 2 ohm resistors on the positive tweeter terminals to very good effect.
chip, i also noticed the vibration at the rear of the cabinet, and took the following measures: aside from putting generic dynamat on the inside of the cabinet, i got some 2.5" by 0.5" oak from lowes and gorilla glued it to the back of the cabinet on either side (9 10/16" long). this just clears the port area, but not the terminal cup. so i removed the terminal cup (a major PITA, btw), and glued another smaller piece of oak with rat shack binding posts. just file an oval area from the oak on the sides and you could easily keep the spring-loaded terminal cup.
thinking of also gluing some oak to the bottom of the cabinet which would further add some stability/mass without affecting aesthetics. hey, it's cheap and easy.
regarding the braces: THEY DO FIT, but in the following way: i requested and placed TWO per speaker, on either side in between the drivers. all you do is discard the square wood piece that is supposed to go with the non-threaded end and snug up the round brace to the baffle in that area. i didn't put any dynamat on the inner back in the area where the square piece for the threaded end fits, and gorilla glued front and back. it was a bit of a hassle reaching in to turn the brace while keeping it straight, but hey, i'm satisfied.
even with all this, mine seem to sound a bit better/clearer stuffed.
hard to tell if the port was a random act or a design intention. it's too thick to be a discarded chinese toilet paper roll :-) :-)
hope this helps a bit.
happy holidays!