I've owned both the ARROS and FORESTs simulaneously in prior systems, so I
have some hands-on experience with both their strengths and their warts.
ARRO speaker positioning. If you move them out from the back wall , their ethereal "presence" and especially the limited-in-any case low-mid range to low end bass response falls off dramatically, to the point of extreme frustration. With a 4 inch mid-bass driver, you cannot defy physics. The differences are not subtle.
ARRO peak performance quotient: they are not as power hungry as the FORESTs but still demand high-current quality build electronics upstream for peak performance.
As highlighted already, a quality build subwoofer will help out but if and on,y if .... a quality build audiophile grade sub. And please, no cheap wooly chuffing bass boxes that comprise the big chunk of the AV arena. The problem is that that type of sub will cost you as much or more than the ARROS themselves unless find a helluva deal used.
ARROs cable sensitivities: I experimented with a myriad of speaker cable contenders and pretenders . They are fussy speakers - the winners were the Totem Tress and Chord Odyssey or Rumour. The Tress is a knockoff of the CHORD .... Silver plated braided copper. Quality build ICs are another must have . I never found any cheap choices that worked - full stop.
ARRO mass loading - simply put .... Don't do it. Waste of time and the resulting sonic signature I found was a step down and that step down was not subtle.
IMO, experiment further first with the status quo and smaller $$-conscious changes, but IMO you will likely be either dumping the speaker or the upstream gear - your post indicates some serious absence of system synergy so far. Speaker Repositioning may ameliorate some of your frustrations and it's a $$-saving first step in eliminating the unknowns.
have some hands-on experience with both their strengths and their warts.
ARRO speaker positioning. If you move them out from the back wall , their ethereal "presence" and especially the limited-in-any case low-mid range to low end bass response falls off dramatically, to the point of extreme frustration. With a 4 inch mid-bass driver, you cannot defy physics. The differences are not subtle.
ARRO peak performance quotient: they are not as power hungry as the FORESTs but still demand high-current quality build electronics upstream for peak performance.
As highlighted already, a quality build subwoofer will help out but if and on,y if .... a quality build audiophile grade sub. And please, no cheap wooly chuffing bass boxes that comprise the big chunk of the AV arena. The problem is that that type of sub will cost you as much or more than the ARROS themselves unless find a helluva deal used.
ARROs cable sensitivities: I experimented with a myriad of speaker cable contenders and pretenders . They are fussy speakers - the winners were the Totem Tress and Chord Odyssey or Rumour. The Tress is a knockoff of the CHORD .... Silver plated braided copper. Quality build ICs are another must have . I never found any cheap choices that worked - full stop.
ARRO mass loading - simply put .... Don't do it. Waste of time and the resulting sonic signature I found was a step down and that step down was not subtle.
IMO, experiment further first with the status quo and smaller $$-conscious changes, but IMO you will likely be either dumping the speaker or the upstream gear - your post indicates some serious absence of system synergy so far. Speaker Repositioning may ameliorate some of your frustrations and it's a $$-saving first step in eliminating the unknowns.