Tonearm recommendation


Hello all,
Recently procured a Feickert Blackbird w/ the Jelco 12 inch tonearm.
The table is really good, and its a keeper. The Jelco is also very good, but not as good as my Fidelity Research FR66s. So the Jelco will eventually hit Ebay, and the question remains do I keep the FR66s or sell that and buy something modern in the 5-6 K range. My only point of reference is my old JMW-10 on my Aries MK1, so I don't know how the FR66s would compare to a modern arm. So I'd like to rely on the collective knowledge and experience of this group for a recommendation.

Keep the FR66s, or go modern in the 5-6K range, say a Moerch DP8 or maybe an SME.

Any and all thoughts and opinions are of course much appreciated.

Cheers,      Crazy Bill
wrm0325
I have used a FR arm it is good. I have also used a couple of Acos Lustre GST-1 but they are WAY too cheap to consider here. I had the shorter version but they were avalible in 12" version also if memory serves. I saw one on EBAY for $ 140 so you could get one to throw at anyone who hasn't actualy had the arm they recommend. Stan the HI FI man

Raul I can't spell but even I would not write "the tonearm is totally builded at home" Lose the ded and save it for later. Add some T 

Great discussion, full of passion and some interesting information.

I just built a 3D gimbaled arm with enough mass to work perfectly with the Tsar, a cartridge of such low compliance it is almost ridiculous!!  The great thing about 3D printing arms and then making them into gimbals is you get the structural rigidity of the stainless steel gimbal with ABEC 7 bearings and the absolute quiet of the 3D printed headshell and armtube.

Me, personally, I would use the FR-66 with those cartridges and be done with it.  If I was dead set on a new arm I would check out 3D printed arms, they are quieter than anything else available.

HW

I commenced reading Rauls overly long passage ,got halfway thru and knew enough to know this is whats wrong with HIGH END AUDIO.Respectfully..Too many guys taking it to a level it shouldn’t be.....with turntables its quite simple..Get one with a 3 point suspension(preferable) for acoustic isolation from the main base and whatever the tonearm used(cost effective) high dollars doesn’t mean best sound!...Mate this tonearm with the proper cartridge/compliance per tonearm mass....and u will realize a resonant freq betw the 8-12 hz range resulting in a more balanced accurate sound.....period!.....Stay away from japanese turntables for critical listening regardless of any dampening system...Pick up an old ARXA table and put
an arm of choice in it and other upgrades,mate it properly with cartridge as stated above and you have everything you need for great sound...Keep your money in your pocket...past a certain point its all overkill and your mind will tell you your hearing something your not!