In a lot of these threads people say without the room being treated

I can't believe that someone's spouse felt that Maggies were ugly. I feel that they are beautiful.  When my lady friend first saw my Martin Logan Monolith IIIs speaker, she actually said that they were pretty.  now the hugh Mark Levinson 23.5 amps on the other hand, she didn't care for them at all.  Cables?  nope. Rosewood Sota Turntable? yep.  Cabinet? yep.

I live in a 1930s style house with lathe and thick plaster walls. Shutters behind the speakers and on the side walls and art on the rear walls, and I can tell you that walking around my room when the music is playing, there are spots that I feel need some sort of treatment.  My floor is hardwood with a large, thick area run from the speakers to the back wall, so that first reflection point is minimized.  I have wonderful sound (to me and others), but yeah, I do think that I may need some sort of room treatment.  Just don't want to throw money at a problem without knowing exactly what I'm doing.
enjoy

Today I installed the 7th & 8th bass trap in my "man cave" and I’m close to being "done" struggling to control the "boominess" in the 24x26’ room. It was so bad that, even with a half-dozen traps, and using the room eq feature built into my JL Audio F113V2 subs, the "boominess" was just uncontrollable, until I moved the subs to behind the sofa. Don’t tell my wife, but I might order two more 2x4’ traps and move the subs back to being besides my speakers.  I have placed multiple orders with ATS Acoustics, first trying two pair of traps, adding another pair and finally the pair I installed today, for both the side, back and front walls, with two suspended from the ceiling.  I'm "almost there"!

I agree with zmanastonomy that treating a small room is critical. Mesch has a good idea as well. I did the same thing but it wasn't intentional.

I started out with several 4x8 bass traps from Ready Acoustics. In the big scheme of things, these are relatively inexpensive and allow the user to modify if they have the time and tools. I started out from the recommendations of the manufacturer at first and then played around with positioning. ( I'm lucky that I don't mind putting holes in my walls and the WAF isn't a factor at the moment). This is informative as it gives one real time experience in how they interact with your room. As my system has progressed through the years, I've found that better sound has come from removing, adjusting and repositioning as well as modifying.

I've been reading and learning about acoustics over the past year or so...just because I like to learn new stuff.  Got Room EQ Wizard (free), a mic and cheap ADC, and I've had a great time learning to use the software.  It's complex at first, but after a little while, the various graphs start to mean something...mostly frequency response of the room, reverberation, and modal ringing.  Now it's time to try my hand at treating the room problems...in my case very noticeable 130 hertz peak that makes bass notes boomy and indistinct.  First few base traps have definitely helped, but they also are affecting the higher frequencies, especially above 10K.  Seems base traps can be "tuned" to avoid absorbing high frequencies.  I've been making mine out of Roxul, covered with a thin material that is easy to blow through.  Anyone have any suggestions about better targeting of bass, while leaving the higher frequencies alone?

Most of the comments here are made in regard to the treatment of midrange and high frequencies. The real serious problem in a small space is in the bass frequencies, the result of room dimensions. A very good explanation and discussion of that subject by the designer of Real Traps can be found on the net. Sorry, I don’t have a link or site, but a Google search should bring it up. The interviewer is that annoying guy (he's a little "show biz", and phony sounding) with a white beard and glasses (Audioholics, I believe).