Some versions of the VPI JMW arm have adjustable fluid damping, but others do not. For example, the 12.6 did not, but the 12.7 does. Cheers,
Spencer
Spencer
Which arms are really SOTA, and can be properly setup?
Absolute “must have” mechanical adjustments for a SOTA arm IMO!
1) Micrometer arm height adjustment that has index marks for VTA/SRA. Index marks are needed to ‘fine tune”, and go back to a previous setting, when the last setting was better.
2) Fine azimuth adjustment with index marks. Azimuth is as important as VTA/SRA, for sound quality.
3) Internally damped arm tube, and adjustable external fluid arm damping.
4) Anti-skate adjustment, including no anti-skate option.
5) Fine tracking force adjustment with index marks. For ease of adjustment, azimuth setting should not need to be reset when tracking force is changed IMO.
6) Adjustable head shell cartridge position, and arm pivot-to-stylus distance, for desired horizontal alignment. Straight non-pivot arms also need proper cartridge alignment (if off, they will be off through out the entire record). They also may have equal left-right channel sidewall force issues as the arm moves across the record, depending on the type of arm movement mechanism, IMO.
Tuning the arm by ear is “subjective”! Set for the listener’s sonic taste, as to what playback sounds best!
Electronic amplification, and the cartridge, must be “settled in” (warmed up) before adjustments are made. Play a few Lps before “fine tuning” any adjustments. Keep the stylus clean.
Incremental, “very fine” adjustments, over long term listening, with many Lps is necessary.
The optimum setting is always within a very small “window”.
Certain settings affect, other settings, that may need to be re-adjusted.
Listen for sonic changes as you make incremental adjustments, back and forth, as “clues” for the best setting.
Optimal setting are not for one record, but for the “mean” of all your Lps IMO.
Adjustment for each Lp is “madness’, time consuming, and interrupts the enjoyment of repeated playing during long listening sessions IMO.
When all adjustments are complete 80% of your Lps will sound at their best, the remainder very good IMO. I throw away bad recordings, why waste time listening to crap?
Not every record is well recorded, or will sound great, even with the arm properly set up.
Cartridge suspension break-in and settling over time, and stylus wear, requires arm re-adjustment.
Resistor loading, arm cables, and step-up transformer, gain and impedance (if used), are also big factors in getting best playback sound.
1) Micrometer arm height adjustment that has index marks for VTA/SRA. Index marks are needed to ‘fine tune”, and go back to a previous setting, when the last setting was better.
2) Fine azimuth adjustment with index marks. Azimuth is as important as VTA/SRA, for sound quality.
3) Internally damped arm tube, and adjustable external fluid arm damping.
4) Anti-skate adjustment, including no anti-skate option.
5) Fine tracking force adjustment with index marks. For ease of adjustment, azimuth setting should not need to be reset when tracking force is changed IMO.
6) Adjustable head shell cartridge position, and arm pivot-to-stylus distance, for desired horizontal alignment. Straight non-pivot arms also need proper cartridge alignment (if off, they will be off through out the entire record). They also may have equal left-right channel sidewall force issues as the arm moves across the record, depending on the type of arm movement mechanism, IMO.
Tuning the arm by ear is “subjective”! Set for the listener’s sonic taste, as to what playback sounds best!
Electronic amplification, and the cartridge, must be “settled in” (warmed up) before adjustments are made. Play a few Lps before “fine tuning” any adjustments. Keep the stylus clean.
Incremental, “very fine” adjustments, over long term listening, with many Lps is necessary.
The optimum setting is always within a very small “window”.
Certain settings affect, other settings, that may need to be re-adjusted.
Listen for sonic changes as you make incremental adjustments, back and forth, as “clues” for the best setting.
Optimal setting are not for one record, but for the “mean” of all your Lps IMO.
Adjustment for each Lp is “madness’, time consuming, and interrupts the enjoyment of repeated playing during long listening sessions IMO.
When all adjustments are complete 80% of your Lps will sound at their best, the remainder very good IMO. I throw away bad recordings, why waste time listening to crap?
Not every record is well recorded, or will sound great, even with the arm properly set up.
Cartridge suspension break-in and settling over time, and stylus wear, requires arm re-adjustment.
Resistor loading, arm cables, and step-up transformer, gain and impedance (if used), are also big factors in getting best playback sound.
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- 11 posts total
- 11 posts total