Here's a manual switch that should work. Just use 2 of the inputs for Integrated and HT receiver, then output to the sub.
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/50-6180
Help setting up HT and Integrated Amp and Sub
Here's a manual switch that should work. Just use 2 of the inputs for Integrated and HT receiver, then output to the sub. http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/50-6180 |
Thanks! I went ahead and ordered a switch so will give that a try. I wound up going with a Niles that was recommended on various audiophile type forums. A bit more costly than the one you linked to, but reported to have among the lowest impact to sound quality...some of the ones listed were several hundred dollars, and the one by Manley was over a thousand! So, 50 bucks for gold connectors and audiophile level switchgear seemed reasonable. Thanks, again, for your input...much appreciated! Os. |
It could be your previous attempt to hook both the AVR and Int amp to the sub failed (eg the hum) might be because the Exposure doesn't have a true HT Bypass. Meaning its HT input is really a unity gain connection that still passes thru the preamp which would result in the pre-outs being active at the same time as your AVR subwoofer connection. So the switch approach is probably your best bet. I have a MF A5 int amp with an HT Direct connection which when selected completely bypasses the preamp section of the A5 so that it only functions as a power amp. Therefore no signal is outputted from the preout L/R connections. This allows me to hook up my sub to both the AVR subwoofer output and the L/R preouts from the Int Amp. No hum, no switches - works perfectly. If I'm listening to music, source devices are connected directly the A5 and the AVR is off. The sub gets full range from the A5 preouts and I use the sub xover, phase, and volume. If I'm watching movies thru the AVR, I select the HT Direct input on the A5, the preamp gets bypasses, no signal from the A5 preouts, and the sub gets the LFE signal from the AVR and its bass management settings. |
The hum was actually from the MF A3.5...fairly certain it didn't like my power as I tried it at my parents' house and...no hum. Then again, I did not have the sub/receiver/etc there so that may be it as well. I'm now almost certain that the switch is necessary...both inputs to the sub would probably always be active as they would both be coming ultimately from the Oppo. I have the Oppo connected to the HT receiver via HDMI, and to the integrated via LF and RF out and Sub out (now that I consider that, probably should have connected the sub to the A3.5, too...but I don't recall seeing a sub in/out). Come to think of it, part of the hum situation could be the spaghetti-nest of wires behind all this stuff. In any event, I have bowed to the seemingly inevitable and ordered a switch. This weekend I am going to go through and re-cable everything and purge what is unnecessary then plug the switch into the combo when it arrives. If I have a chance, I'll also try wiring it up without a switch and pared down to just the one input into each: receiver and integrated. I'll report my results... |
Just verified...MF A3.5 does NOT have separate Subwoofer connections, just a Pre-out, which is how I had connected the sub (ran the Oppo in 2-channel mode, connecting LF/RF to the MF A3.5...so pre-out was passing full signal to sub, which has built-in filter which I had set to 80Hz). It all should have been able to work using just the Y connector to the sub, assuming I kept the HT receiver off when playing the Oppo in 2-channel mode...if not for that hum and the pain of having to switch modes in the Oppo all the time. Eh, we'll see what happens with the switch... |