ProAc sound with SS vs tubes


Folks

I am close to buying a Proac D20R. I listened to them at the dealership yesterday, driven by a low power PrimaLuna tube amp, and was totally gobsmacked by the glorious midrange. When I get them, I will be driving them with something very similar - an EL34 powered 40w/ch tube amp. So I have a feeling they will perform close to how they sounded at the dealership!

The one caveat was that at the demo, when I played a bass-heavy electronic track and pulled the volume up, the bass started to get flabby and the port started "huffing". I don’t know if that is the technical term, but it felt like the speaker was losing grip on the bass and starting to lose control of the lowest frequencies with the synthesized bass jabs losing their timing. The track was Algae & Fungi, Part I - by Biosphere from the album Cirque, in case anyone is interested.

Based on that, my question is: is this something that is inherent to the speaker? I plan to switch my tube amp to a SS of significantly higher wattage soon. I am thinking either Ayre-V5xe, or the Hegel H-20 or one maybe even a Plinius-SA102 or SA-103 if I can find one at a reasonable price.

Can any Proac owners tell me if the bass response will tighten up with more power and a SS amp behind the speakers? Or is this a limitation of the D20R’s design that it’s bass response will not be well controlled with tracks that are bass heavy and highly rhythmic?

Thank you so much!
badri
Hi Badri,

I auditioned the D-20R’s with my Manley Snappers. We ran them
in Ultra Linear (100W) and Triode (~30W). I actually preferred them
in Triode mode. The sound was more open and balanced in my opinion.
I ultimately ended up with the D-30R because it was about as big a speaker I could comfortably fit in my room. I run them in Triode mode
and still have dynamics to spare. A few things to note about Proac’s,
is that they do need time to break in. They can sound a bit tight and I recall the bass being a bit loose. At about 50 hours I started to hear noticeable improvements.
They also need space to do there thing. Too close too the wall and bass can be over powering and sloppy. The D-20R put on a good show and I was impressed with what they can do, especially at the price.
There are a few things at play here. Proacs like tubes. I believe a solid state amplifier would tighten up the bass, but you might lose some of the magic in the mids, and overall, get a less "relaxed" sound. A more powerful tube amp (50~60 watts/ch or higher) will most likely solve the issue of the amp running out of current that you experienced at the dealer. Also something else to consider - the amp at the dealer - did it have more than one set of output taps and which was being used? Assuming the amp had more than one set of output taps, switching to the lower value may provide more control in the bass. Lastly, my guess is that the D-20's strong suit is not bass-heavy electronic music, and you may have been pushing the speakers to their limit. Also, need to consider any differences in the room at the dealer vs. your listening room.
Proac's like tubes. Good quality tubes. EL-34 tube amps are not well suited to bass heavy electronica. QuickSilver Mono88's or Mono 120's (running KT-150's) are a fantastic match with Proac and would suit your music preferences. Bass control will not be an issue and you'll get a quality & beauty of midrange that 95% of SS amps will not attain. The comment above about run in time is also spot on. Proac's need a lot of running in to show their true colours.
@cmach Thank you for letting me know about your experience. I have gone ahead with a second-hand purchase of a D20R as opposed to buying it new. I managed to get a Mahogany pair that was listed on here, infact! I was worried that the D30R might have been a little too big for my room - though I really wanted them badly - seeing as how their drivers were made of a very different material and might have behaved more gracefully under pressure.

@nicotico @rothwea That’s interesting. I believe the Jolida’s are known for being easy to roll new tubes into. I might call the local repair shop and ask if the circuits internally can power a higher power tube like the 88s or 150s - and if the output transformers are capable of higher current delivery. If they can, I might just get that done.

In the meantime however, I have managed to get a second-hand Plinius Hautonga integrated. I hope that manages to control the bass more effectively. I will have about 1.5’ behind the speakers and more than 3’ from side walls for each of them (leaving about 6’ between them). Hopefully, this is enough space for them to project a good soundstage, image well and also have a controlled bass.

The midrange is what drew me to these speakers. I don’t think I have visibly melted more into the music than when I listened to these. It was the most generous and enveloping kindness of music I had heard in a while. I hope to retain that quality with the Plinius and hope that the magic stays.
I recently demoed some ProAc D18s and some used ProAc Studio 125s.  Both are lovely speakers but I heard a similar problem to the huffing / bottom end getting loose with both choices mentioned above.  I decided to go out on a limb and have my ProAc dealer order me some Studio 148s.  Very efficient speaker that fills the room and goes very deep with great control.  No huffing or bottom end getting loose.  Plus is a down firing port and did not take up any more room than my Tekton 6.5t monitors on rigid stands.  I am driving them with Audio Refinement separates (a step up from the well praised Audio Refinement integrated amp).  The rest of the details are on my system page.  So glad I took a chance with the ProAc Studio 148s.  I use them with some Soundocity SEV9 outriggers with some spike floor protectors on hockey pucks, all sitting on my carpeted floor.