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Best Way to Spend ~ $2000 for System Improvement

Hi fellow music lovers! I have about $2000 right now to improve my system. It can be for any component, but I'm thinking amplification first, power, pre, or integrated. SS or tube.

To begin, right now I have a Mccormack 0.5 Deluxe power amp with "A" revisions, an Eva 2 passive preamp, Metrum Octave v1 DAC, Dell laptop for music files. Sometimes I use a Teac H750 as a transport and GMA Pico Executive speakers. The room is small, about 14x18x10ft. I listen to about 50/50 rock and classical, mostly full orchestral. As far as just sound goes, I would like the bass to be "fast". No delay or overhang, not exaggerated, but detailed. Detail is important at any frequency, the more the better, but not at the expense of musicality. I realize at this price point, compromise is necessary, and treble would be the best place for that. No harshness allowed, but I'm in my later 50s now and don't hear treble like I once did.

I hope I've given enough info to get some good suggestions. I like the sound now, but think it could be better, maybe a slightly lower noise floor and a little more pace and rhythm while retaining it's sweetness and smoothness. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. BTW, if any existing question answers any part of this question, feel free to link it.
xrayz
charles1dad's avatar
charles1dad
10,236 posts
 
Hello  xrayz, 
I'd recommend you  look into the Atma-Sphere UV-1 as a possible contender given the track record of its builder. 
Charles, 
almarg's avatar
Ag insider logo xs@2x
almarg
9,670 posts
 
... the interconnects to the amp are only 1/2 meter.
Good!

... the USB/ SPDIF converter is a Musical Fidelity V link.

I see that both versions of the V-Link for which information is available at the MF site (the V-LinkII and the V-Link192) have specified output impedances for their coaxial outputs of 50 ohms. Which is absurd if true, as it would create a gross mismatch to the 75 ohm input impedance of components such as your DAC which provide standards-compliant S/PDIF inputs, as well as to the impedance of standard 75 ohm digital cables. The likely result being unpredictable but almost certainly adverse sonic effects, which among other factors would vary unpredictably as a function of the length of the digital cable.

On the other hand, though, I see that John Atkinson’s measurements in Stereophile’s review of the original version of the V-Link (www.stereophile.com/content/musical-fidelity-v-link-usb-spdif-converter-measurements) made no mention of such an issue.

Assuming you are using the coaxial output of the V-Link, as opposed to its Toslink output, I would suggest that you contact MF and ask them if that 50 ohm spec is accurate. If it is, my one suggestion beyond what has already been said is that you consider replacing the V-Link.

Good luck. Regards,
-- Al

soix
8,809 posts
 
Did you mention what interconnects and cables you're using?  They can often improve upon the areas you're targeting. 

jafant
18,899 posts
 
Add a Conrad Johnson or McCormack pre-amp.
asp307
159 posts
 
It’s been mentioned already but address your power situation. I just did this and while the wall receptacles are still burning-in, I have noticed dramatic differences already most notably a lowered noise floor, clear and dynamic sound, more air around the instruments, deeper and more detailed bass, etc.

My electrician added a dedicated 20A breaker to the circuit box and ran Southwire (Romex) 10-2AWG wire (keeping the run as isolated as possible) to a junction box and into two Furutech GTX-D (Rhodium) outlets.

Got the outlets on Ebay by way of Hifi Heaven in Wisconsin for $180 each. Electrician’s time at $395.

Big improvements for under $800.

You will not know the full capabilities of what you have until you address your power.
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