QUALITY AND SECURITY OF "LITTELFUSE" PRODUCTS


I find the tech specs of  LITTELFUSE very informative,enlightening and reassuring.
I am considering using them on my treasured reference level SPECTRAL electronics.
Anyone with experience using or EE level comments? Many thanks. Music lover and long time
audiophile, Peter.
ptss
To ebm. Caps in heading were inadvertent. I was in a hurry. I tried to correct it later but system wouldn't allow it after the 1st post. Correction allowed only before someone else posts. Fwiw, I do think it's an important topic and was impressed to learn the LITTELFUSES are used in critical medical and aerospace industries. I am not commenting on sound quality as I haven't tried them--but I will report after I try them ( I'm trying to rationalize a purchase based on the age of the 'old' fuses in use;but,it seams I have heard somewhere that the longer the metal is in use the smoother the current flow? ). I did take a look at one of the 'audiophile quality' manufacturers mentioned in a post above. Honestly; I found the information ludicrous,or silly. My guess is there must be truly ocd types in this hobby that will buy "anything" to satisfy there craving - and P.T. Barnum made it official years ago that a fool and his money are soon parted

At the risk of getting flamed by one particular fellow whose panties get quite wadded at the mention of Roger Modjeski’s name (apparently for not believing in the audible superiority of all audiophile boutique parts.), here’s what Roger found when he opened one of the eight Hi-Fi Tuning Fuses that were in one of his RM9 amplifiers returned to him for repair after the fuses had not done what a fuse is supposed to do when presented with a short: blow.

Roger discovered that the fuse was not designed for, capable of, or suitable for, use in a DC circuit---the very kind of circuit in which a tube operates. The customer’s RM9 had a tube fail, and the Littlefuse Roger installs in his amps would have done what a fuse is supposed to do when faced with a short in the DC circuit of a tube amp---blow. The Hi-Fi Tuning fuse did not, and the amplifier was then of course damaged. Not as a result of a fault in the design of the amp (unless you don’t want your tubes fused---Audio Research amps aren’t, ARC instead letting a resistor blow when a tube goes bad, thus requiring the resistor and any related parts to be replaced, rather than a fuse. At far higher cost, of course.), but because those fuses do not possess "high breaking capacity".

Surprised, Roger called first the U.S. distributor of the Hi-Fi Tuning Fuses, then the German designer/manufacturer. To his astonishment, neither knew what the term "high breaking capacity" means. That’s right---a fuse "designer" who knows less about fuses and their construction than an amplifier designer/manufacturer! The moral of this story is, if you are going to spend more on a fuse than a tube (if that doesn’t give you pause, spend on ;-), you might want to make sure the fuse is up to the task it is asked to perform in whatever application it is employed.

Thanks David,

As an audiophile, I'm interested in the fuses.  In retrospect, I could have made this a bit more clear. 

The fuse argument is much like the power cord argument.  People contend that inexpensive wire is in your walls, so why would the last 6 feet matter, and yet most people reading this will agree that it does.

As a manufacturer, an owners' manual is of course a legal document which is why we find those silly opening instructions - don't stand in a bathtub full of water while operating, etc.

I like the idea of furnishing a solid design with good parts, while leaving a bit of untapped potential for the end user to discover (better tubes, and fuses).

Regards,
Thom @ Galibier
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