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Best type of Sub to consider?

I'm not looking for a brand or model recommendation at this time, but rather the best type of sub to fit my room and system. If you access my System pics, you will see that I have open corners behind my speakers and that my Horning speakers are rear ported. This has caused some energy loss, especially in the bass when compared to my previous setup in my other home.

I am a newbie to subs and see different design types that fire up, down, up and down, and forward. There may be other variations. So, does any of this matter when applying the best design type to a room, my room? My knee-jerk reaction is to go with forward firing in my situation, but that's complete speculation on my part, so why I'm asking.
Kenny
kennythekey
bdp24's avatar
bdp24
10,280 posts
 

Hi Bill. No, the only paper cone is the 12. The reason for that is that it is more of a GR Research product than a Rythmik one. The two companies and their owners have a unique working relationship. Brian was already offering the Rythmik products, and that’s what drew Danny to him, specifically with the intent of collaborating on Danny’s idea for the OB/Dipole sub. The sub is really Danny’s baby, and he prefers paper cones. The 12" aluminum cone version is all Brian’s, the paper version being exactly the same (with one exception---read on) but for the cone, which Danny finalized the parameters on. One can buy an F12 with either the paper or aluminum cone, sealed only.

There are two versions of the 12" paper cone woofer: the first is for use in a sealed or ported "normal" sub. The second is one whose parameters have been optimized for Open Baffle or Infinite Baffle use. You cannot use a regular woofer in those two applications, nor an OB/IB woofer sealed or ported. The free air resonant characteristics and other specs are not the same, and the two woofers cannot be used interchangeably.

whart's avatar
whart
3,215 posts
 
Thanks, bdp. I know when I ordered the 12" from them in paper  cone that I looked at 15" versions, but I'm probably not going to invest in more woofers or subs (than I already have) until I move and reassess the speaker system as a whole. 
meerzistar
232 posts
 
I have logged a lot of hours with variety of subs. I always fall back to simple well braced boxes, paper cones, acoustic suspension, and plenty of power with digital or analog equalization.   
kennythekey OP
593 posts
 
Hey guys, is there anyone out there making the H frames for the OB Subs to order? For example, no extended table top or bottom base? So, let's say I wanted them to look like my Horning speakers in terms of styling, like rounded edges, etc.. I also would probably want front grills or have them prepped for that. I've seen those options mentioned and considered, but...

I got a couple of links from Danny for two guys that are building frames, but in the thread there was some hesitation regarding customization due to setup and cost. I understand that, but in the end l'm trying to get more of an aesthetic look, because the cabinetry of my Hornings are special. I would also want to add a veneer. And, is there contact information for the two builders on Audiocircle, or do I need to join the forum to find out?

Kenny
bdp24's avatar
bdp24
10,280 posts
 

Kenny, I ordered my H-frames from Jay (Captainhemo on the GR Research AudioCircle Forum) just as you want yours, with flush tops and bottoms. And I put the idea in his head to make the frames with inset grills, to look like speakers from the 60’s (AR’s, etc). He was making them with the grills attached to the front of the side panels, covering them up. If Jay isn’t doing the flush fit anymore, I’ll trade you my tops for your over-hanging ones if you get a pair. I haven’t built mine yet, the two woofers still being in my old W-frames. Jay’s H-frames are great, CNC cut to Danny’s specs from 1.5" thick MDF!

To contact Jay, just register on AudioCircle (or see below)---it takes only a couple of minutes. He’s great to buy from, a real swell guy. If you don’t want to wait for his next run, I would be willing to let you have my pair---I won’t need them for a few months. But I didn’t have my edges rounded over, wanting to do it myself in a very small radius, like only 1/8", also old school. If you want yours veneered, you don’t want the edges rounded---that makes veneering very difficult. Send me a pm if you want, I can give you Jay's email address.

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