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Best type of Sub to consider?

I'm not looking for a brand or model recommendation at this time, but rather the best type of sub to fit my room and system. If you access my System pics, you will see that I have open corners behind my speakers and that my Horning speakers are rear ported. This has caused some energy loss, especially in the bass when compared to my previous setup in my other home.

I am a newbie to subs and see different design types that fire up, down, up and down, and forward. There may be other variations. So, does any of this matter when applying the best design type to a room, my room? My knee-jerk reaction is to go with forward firing in my situation, but that's complete speculation on my part, so why I'm asking.
Kenny
kennythekey
kennythekey OP
593 posts
 
Hey guys, is there anyone out there making the H frames for the OB Subs to order? For example, no extended table top or bottom base? So, let's say I wanted them to look like my Horning speakers in terms of styling, like rounded edges, etc.. I also would probably want front grills or have them prepped for that. I've seen those options mentioned and considered, but...

I got a couple of links from Danny for two guys that are building frames, but in the thread there was some hesitation regarding customization due to setup and cost. I understand that, but in the end l'm trying to get more of an aesthetic look, because the cabinetry of my Hornings are special. I would also want to add a veneer. And, is there contact information for the two builders on Audiocircle, or do I need to join the forum to find out?

Kenny
bdp24's avatar
bdp24
9,947 posts
 

Kenny, I ordered my H-frames from Jay (Captainhemo on the GR Research AudioCircle Forum) just as you want yours, with flush tops and bottoms. And I put the idea in his head to make the frames with inset grills, to look like speakers from the 60’s (AR’s, etc). He was making them with the grills attached to the front of the side panels, covering them up. If Jay isn’t doing the flush fit anymore, I’ll trade you my tops for your over-hanging ones if you get a pair. I haven’t built mine yet, the two woofers still being in my old W-frames. Jay’s H-frames are great, CNC cut to Danny’s specs from 1.5" thick MDF!

To contact Jay, just register on AudioCircle (or see below)---it takes only a couple of minutes. He’s great to buy from, a real swell guy. If you don’t want to wait for his next run, I would be willing to let you have my pair---I won’t need them for a few months. But I didn’t have my edges rounded over, wanting to do it myself in a very small radius, like only 1/8", also old school. If you want yours veneered, you don’t want the edges rounded---that makes veneering very difficult. Send me a pm if you want, I can give you Jay's email address.

kennythekey OP
593 posts
 
Happy 4th of July everyone!

Eric - Good stuff, so thank you again for this useful information. I will want to contact Jay.

I'm not purchasing anything until I put all the pieces together, and there are quite a few of them if I go this route. I'm not an aspiring do-it-yourselfer, so when I do a DIY project it's because l can't get what I want any other way. If I need more outside help then that's an added cost.
Kenny


kennythekey OP
593 posts
 
Eric - And, thank you for your generous offer to trade product.
Kenny
ajant
88 posts
 
 

Eric,

 Would there be any advantage to daisy chaining a pair of sealed Rythmik F12 subs with a pair of the dual 12 Rythmik OB subs?

 However, my room is only 14 ft x 19 and a 7.5' ceiling.


This sub is made specifically for music reproduction, being optimized for sound QUALITY, gladly sacrificing maximum sound quantity to get it. The output of a pair of the OB/Dipole subs is about equal to a single sealed Rythmik. Are you willing to give up 3dB in output to obtain the OB/Dipole sound quality? I was.

 


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