Best type of Sub to consider?


I'm not looking for a brand or model recommendation at this time, but rather the best type of sub to fit my room and system. If you access my System pics, you will see that I have open corners behind my speakers and that my Horning speakers are rear ported. This has caused some energy loss, especially in the bass when compared to my previous setup in my other home.

I am a newbie to subs and see different design types that fire up, down, up and down, and forward. There may be other variations. So, does any of this matter when applying the best design type to a room, my room? My knee-jerk reaction is to go with forward firing in my situation, but that's complete speculation on my part, so why I'm asking.
Kenny
kennythekey

Kenny, I ordered my H-frames from Jay (Captainhemo on the GR Research AudioCircle Forum) just as you want yours, with flush tops and bottoms. And I put the idea in his head to make the frames with inset grills, to look like speakers from the 60’s (AR’s, etc). He was making them with the grills attached to the front of the side panels, covering them up. If Jay isn’t doing the flush fit anymore, I’ll trade you my tops for your over-hanging ones if you get a pair. I haven’t built mine yet, the two woofers still being in my old W-frames. Jay’s H-frames are great, CNC cut to Danny’s specs from 1.5" thick MDF!

To contact Jay, just register on AudioCircle (or see below)---it takes only a couple of minutes. He’s great to buy from, a real swell guy. If you don’t want to wait for his next run, I would be willing to let you have my pair---I won’t need them for a few months. But I didn’t have my edges rounded over, wanting to do it myself in a very small radius, like only 1/8", also old school. If you want yours veneered, you don’t want the edges rounded---that makes veneering very difficult. Send me a pm if you want, I can give you Jay's email address.

Happy 4th of July everyone!

Eric - Good stuff, so thank you again for this useful information. I will want to contact Jay.

I'm not purchasing anything until I put all the pieces together, and there are quite a few of them if I go this route. I'm not an aspiring do-it-yourselfer, so when I do a DIY project it's because l can't get what I want any other way. If I need more outside help then that's an added cost.
Kenny


 

Eric,

 Would there be any advantage to daisy chaining a pair of sealed Rythmik F12 subs with a pair of the dual 12 Rythmik OB subs?

 However, my room is only 14 ft x 19 and a 7.5' ceiling.


This sub is made specifically for music reproduction, being optimized for sound QUALITY, gladly sacrificing maximum sound quantity to get it. The output of a pair of the OB/Dipole subs is about equal to a single sealed Rythmik. Are you willing to give up 3dB in output to obtain the OB/Dipole sound quality? I was.

 


ajant---Yes! And that is a very good idea, one which Danny Richie himself has done when showing at RMAF (where the OB/Dipole Sub was voted "Best Bass At The Show" multiple years in the recent past), using the OB’s in the front of the room and F12G’s in the rear. The Rythmik plate amp is available in an XLR version (actually two different XLR models---the XLR2 and XLR3), so you can run a long inter-connect from your pre (or the OB sub’s plate amp) to the F12’s at the back of the room.

The XLR2 allows multiple subs to be connected in "Master/Slave" fashion, but that is recommended only with identical subs, not OB’s with sealed subs. That is because the Master/Slave connection disables some of the Slave’s controls, the Master used to set the operating parameters for both it and the Slave sub. But two subs can be connected without the Master/Slave relationship, the input signal reaching the first sub’s amp merely passed along to a second sub---handy if one’s pre-amp lacks enough outputs for two pair of subs. My pre has both RCA and XLR outputs, two L/R pairs of each, so I can feed OB’s and sealed subs separately.