Should I buy a Class A Amp.

 FWIW, 
My Mark Levinson no. 334, the "Voltage Gain Stages" are biased to operate in a full class A mode in order to keep all devices within their most linear, distortion free ranges at all time. Using the proprietary adaptive biasing scheme developed in the no. 33 Reference mono's that deliver the sonic advantages of a Class A output stage without incuring the substantial inefficiencies and consequential thermal problems of pure Class A operation. Power output, 125w, 250w, 500w into 8-4-2ohms.

As a result I chose the less powerfull no.334 over the 335 or,336. I do not use any power conditioning or regeration equipment. Laws of physics cannot be denied. The Levinson no. 336 draws 50 amperes at 120v. Long term, you cannot deliver more power to a speaker than you can pull from your wall.

N

Well if you have techie near-by that you trust, If you live in colder zones and need extra heat, you should go for powerful class A amp.

nutty " ... My Mark Levinson no. 334, the "Voltage Gain Stages" are biased to operate in a full class A mode ... Laws of physics cannot be denied. The Levinson no. 336 draws 50 amperes at 120v ... "

That seems very dubious. It surely can’t draw 50A from a 20A line. How do you have this amplifier connected to AC?

I have a Rega R CD Player a Rega R Dac a Thorens 160B Turntable with a SME 3009 series 2 improved tonearm with a Grado Platinum Cart.  I also have Tara Labs Interconnects and finally Luminous Silver Speaker Cable. No Power Cords except the ones that came with the Components.