2. misc-audio
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Wall Receptacle Oyaide R0, Furutech GTX-G and SR Black UEF

Hi there been searching around for some good receptacles as I am about to do some reno work for a dedicated room and I have narrowed down to these 3 brands based on what I have read in the web and on the availability within my reach. 

I am thinking of getting one of them but problem is, it is not easy to do a comparison specifically to these 3 series and I have not read so far anyone doing a comparison for specifically the oyaide R0 receptacle which is an unplated version of R1. 

So I am asking here for some help if anyone have had the privilege trying them all in their setup? I have read the thread on this forum "SR red fuse" started by Oregonpapa touching on the SR blacks receptacle with David pritchard comments on it which is btw a very good and informative thread and I have ordered the SR black fuse for my amp based on their reviews and other members too who have pitched in too.

There lots of other kinds of receptacles around and I am aware there are some that do not believe with those uber expensive receptacles performing better than a hospital grade receptacle but then this hobby is full of surprises and voodoos that over the years have made me a believer.
 
A little detail on my setup I am using ARC's (ref150,ref 6 and cd 9) paired up with SF Guarneri EVO's. As for cables am using full loom Transparent Ultra MM2 hooked on to my QB8 which is using Frey 2 power cable to my wattgate wall receptacle.
tjbhuler
macdude
187 posts
 
Nmmusicman, according to my UK audiophile friends, there are huge gains when upgrading to a balanced mains block, such as the Vertex AQ Balanced Hirez Taga. In fact, Vertex goes as far as saying your system won't perform at a high level until you go balanced power.

I was about to go that route, but there was no audition period since I had to get it custom made with US sockets.

I would also place the PP-1 on isolation feet or an isolation stand if you haven't already done so. That will make a big difference.
nmmusicman
277 posts
 
Hi macdude,

"I would also place the PP-1 on isolation feet or an isolation stand if you haven't already done so. That will make a big difference.

How about this:  The PP-1 in the main rig is placed on maglev isolators which in turn are placed on a Sound Anchors amp stand that is filled with 10lbs of sand that is then spiked to the cement pad thru the carpet. In addition, the first outlet in the daisy chain has been replaced by an Oyaide RO. My amp and REL sub are connected to the first outlet. There are also TeknaSonics C-5 and C-10 vibration transducers strategically placed on the chassis.

The PP-1 in the HT system is placed on a Steve Blinn component rack where it is isolated with German Acoustics spike feet that are interfaced with low durometer o-rings. There is also a TeknaSonics C-5 vibration transducer on the chassis. Inside are Walker Audio resonance control discs placed for best results. 

I'm glad you are liking the results from the R0, it will only get better as it breaks in. Please keep us posted to the RO performance attributes.

Cheers


tjbhuler's avatar
tjbhuler OP
55 posts
 
Macdude thanks keeping us updated with the R0 in place in your system. This is giving me more reasons to go for the R0 hopefully my dealer has some in stock..
macdude
187 posts
 
With the R0 installed, I had the same epiphany as when I added the Entreq Powerus Challenger:

There's more to redbook CD than I ever imagined.

It appears as though the other outlets are obscuring/smearing the low level details that are present with the R0 installed.
tjbhuler's avatar
tjbhuler OP
55 posts
 
Macdude how many hours in are you with the R0? Does it emphasise more on certain frequency range in your system or does it sound tonally balanced? I am always worried when any of this upgrades causes a tonal change.
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