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Power Cords Rule

Just finished another DIY power cable using Ohno Continuous Cast copper. This is the third cable added in the past two months, the first two for my ARC mono blocks, this latest for my Wadia 861SE CDP, now over ten years old. I am trying to wring every bit of performance from this player, modified by GNSC. This new cable has lifted that old player to a new plateau of sound stage and clarity; there's just more information in the music not previously heard. All of these cables have first replaced Transparent Reference AC cables, and, after those, three other DIY cables containing OCC copper but with a PVC dielectric not well-suited for AC cables, but vastly superior to the Transparents, circa 2002. My newest versions have polypropylene dielectric over a combined 8 AWG OCC copper, mated to Furutech rhodium plugs. All together, these AC cables have improved my system as much as upgrading the front end would have, IMO, and that would also require a pre-amp in going away from Wadia. And so, my fellow audiophiles, this is where it's at--get that clean power and those great power cables--make 'em yourself--all else depends more on that source of pure power than your other cables can achieve, good as they have to be, as well. Every piece of your system will improve with a purer current--any way you can get it.
128x128jafreeman
melbguy1
1,438 posts
 
@posbwp55 , I haven’t tried the Origo power cables, though I have one Unity pc which is very good for the money, with the only weak point being its fairly cheap connectors (which I re-terminated with Oyaide P-004/C-004’s borrowed from from one of my Prime pc’s). I previously had a full loom of Origo cables (sans pc’s). Origo uses similar technology as Prime, but has once less shielding. Yes, in my experience Origo is more neutral, but there is not a really bid difference in tonality. Jorma cables are basically neutral, though Origo is the most neutral of the top models.

Given the relatively small difference in price from Origo to Prime, and the fact I was planning an all-ss system, I decided to go for Prime pc’s when I upgraded to Jorma. If you are aiming for a bit more detail in your system, bare in mind Prime’s extra and more comprehensive shielding & slightly higher spec copper wire should give you a lower noise floor & improved resolution/detail. And you could always re-terminate the P-004/C-004 connectors later on with cryo’s M1/F1 connectors if it’s a keeper. Then if you wanted to subtly dial back the warmth from there, I would install a Furutech GTX-D(R) wpo.
jafant's avatar
jafant
19,798 posts
 

My pleasure- Bart.

TY- melbguy1 for your continued support and sharing. It appears that your system is pretty set. Must be a great feeling of accomplishment.

I still want to demo and audition a few more cabling options before I finally set my mind into my system- that will be a great feeling of accomplishment as well.


Happy Listening!

melbguy1
1,438 posts
 
@jafant , Actually i’ve got a few big upgrades planned in the next 14 months or so aimed at removing any weak links & further optimizing my system. Mind you, my system will still remain fairly simple, being based on cd & 4K Bluray for movies. I’m picking up a nice Tivoli dab+/Internet radio for background music at home next week.

Good luck with your cable demo'ing!
posbwp55
13 posts
 
Melbguy1,

Good idea on using a Furutech GTX-D (R) for the wall outlet to gain detail. I am going to run three dedicated lines using the following outlets: SR Red, SR Black and Furutech GTX-D (R). I have three different Bybee Stealth PLC's that use SR Red, Furutech GTX-D (R) & (G). This will give me the flexibility I used to get from tube rolling. Jafant, keep us posted on your PC demos. 

Bart
dragon_vibe
430 posts
 
I have the Neotech NES 3001 Speaker Cable which is 8AWG wired as a Power cord and it improved clarity and bass overall. Very happy and they are cheap too.
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