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Is a Power Amp the Answer?

Hi Everyone…

I want to adjust my stereo system to sound extremely clear, virtually distortion-free, strong across all frequencies and loud, without having to turn the volume on my integrated receiver to 70. (More than that, distortion starts becoming apparent.) Plus, I’d like it to be louder, but I loose audiophile sound quality at louder levels with my current line-up.

I’m thinking that adding a power amp and hooking it up to my integrated amp might be the answer. I’ve never done this, don’t know how, and need your guys’ and gals’ input, please.

My current equipment:

Rotel RA-1570 integrated amp. 120/watts/channel; 80 db S/N ratio, phono stage, 100 db S/N ratio, Digital and LL.  http://www.rotel.com/product/ra-1570  

GoldenEar Triton Five loudspeakers.  90 db efficiency, 8 ohms, recommended amplification, 15-400 wpc. https://www.goldenear.com/products/triton-series?gktab=3

(Also, for the record, Oppo BDP-105, Pioneer PL-550 turntable with Denon DL-110 cartridge, and V-LPS phono stage.)

Three questions, please:

  1. Are my Rotel integrated amp and GoldenEar Triton Fives properly matched, in the sense of this: am I maximizing the features of both products, given their respective specifications. (I don’t know; I don’t understand this part of putting together a system whose synergies are maximized.)

  2. I think I can use the Rotel as a preamp and match a 300-watt power amp to it to sound extremely clear, virtually distortion-free, strong across all frequencies and loud, without having to turn the volume on my integrated receiver to 70.

  3. If the answer to question 2 is “yes,” what 300-watt power amp would any of you suggest up to $2,000.  (I looked at the reviews of the Emotiva XPA Gen3, but my it was priced at only $800. Of course, as an American, I’m thinking something must be wrong, since all the other power amps in that wattage class are significantly more expensive. Am I right, or is the Emotiva audiophile class?) https://emotiva.com/products/amplifiers/xpa-gen3

Thank you, everyone. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. So happy to be a part of this group.

Mark

 

 


 

 

128x128tritonmark
auxinput
2,920 posts
 

If you are considering an amplifier, one thing to look for is amplifier gain. Amplifiers have a signal gain in the 26-32db range. The Emotiva XPA-1 gain is 29 db, which is decently in the middle. I know some of the Wyred 4 Sound amps have a gain as much as 30.7db. If you get an amp with a high gain, the Rotel preamp does not have to work as hard to push a higher voltage signal - this can help keep the signal distortion lower.

If you consider a sub, the important thing to make sure is that you strip out all the low frequencies from your main GoldenEar speakers. If you’re just adding a sub to help with bass and not removing the bass signals from the main speakers, it will do nothing to help your high volume distortion because the amp is still pushing a full-range signal.

You can either apply a passive crossover on the GoldenEar speaker wire (which is not really the best solution), or you can use some sort of active crossover to ensure the Rotel amp is not driving a full-range signal. You can use the "pre-out/main-in" processor loop connections on the lower part of your Rotel. The "main-in" inputs go straight to the internal amp. If you can’t find a good active crossover or you don’t want to run long lengths of RCA cable back and forth from your subwoofer, you can try using a pro-audio crossover, like a Rane AC22 or AC22B (lot’s of pro audio crossovers on ebay for less than $400 -- Rane, dbx, etc.). You’ll have to get some RCA-to-XLR or RCA-to-TRS cables to use this option.

dlcockrum's avatar
dlcockrum
2,190 posts
 
hi Mark,

Do not select an amplifier based on wattage ratings, at least not without knowing the associated headroom (+/ X db) at varying impedance loads, or any specs for that matter possibly excepting peak current (amperes) rating and how it responds to your speakers impedance load, not just nominal, but across the entire range. Better to listen to (reliable) users/dealers that have used and can unbiasedly recommend amplifier models that work and sound best with your speakers, or better yet, an in-home audition.

Arnis Balgaris, October 1988, Stereophile Classe’ DR-9 Amplifier review:

"A bare specification of "100wpc into 8 ohms" says almost nothing, at best giving an idea of a starting point."..."For starters, it will double its power output whenever the impedance is halved, down to a 2-ohm limit."

And my all time favorite:

Anthony Cordesman, TAS, Classe’ DR-9 Amplifier review:

"Put it this way: If you can learn anything from technical tests of wattage output and IM and harmonic distortion in a high-powered transistor amplifier, it is because you are buying a piece of garbage."

Nothing further to add.

Best to you Mark,
Dave


danvignau's avatar
danvignau
935 posts
 
A sub works wonders.
stringreen's avatar
stringreen
6,440 posts
 
Your inclination is not the answer.
cedargrover
302 posts
 
It isn't your power amp, it is that you're asking too much from a pair of 6 inch drivers doing bass and midrange duty.  You need subs.  I suggest a pair of Vandersteens, but if you are brand loyal I'm sure Triton makes one.  Your dealer will let you bring one home to test out.  With your towers high passed and the sub active, you will get the bigger sound you're looking for.  

You would benefit from from a better amp, but that isn't going to solve the problem that you're complaining about.  It will, however, solve the problems you notice after you get these issues straightened out.  

Enjoy!

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