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Class "A" sound, as related to Stereophile.


It's all about the sound.

It's all about sound, not how much it cost; when I got into "high end", I knew right off the bat I couldn't afford it, but I had to find one thing for sure; how do the various components sound in regard to Stereophile's classes, or ratings? In order to know this; I had to acquire the ability to identify "Stereophile's" class "A" class "B" and class "C" sounds, and the only way to do that was: first, subscribe to Stereophile, and next was to go to every high end audio salon within driving distance; there were 5 well stocked "high end" salons within driving distance. (Since I didn't take my wife, that created some problems)

After a few years of subscribing to Stereophile, plus auditioning equipment that Stereophile recommended, I knew the sound of those recommendations, and I absolutely concurred with them; "If you want to hear the music, you got to pay the piper". While that's true, it's possible to get class "A" sound with class "B" bucks or less.

At this moment, I am looking at 8 capacitors that cost $25 dollars each, plus 2 mono blocks with an instant resale value of 6K. Once I take the covers off and go in with my soldering iron, these mono blocks are worth a resell of O; my mission must be a success. After a successful mission, the resell is still 0; but those mono blocks will deliver class "A" or "A"+ sound, and that's some sweet music.

I have to visualize and hear music in my head before I can modify a component to deliver class "A" sound; but that's the only way for me to get what has become a necessity.

The pressure someone is under when they modify, is great, but the rewards are glorious. On these mono blocks, they are too small for the huge capacitors, therefore I have to figure a way to make the case larger. My reward is "sound" with absolutely no relation to money. I often wander if someone with a fat bankroll can identify the sound, or only how much they paid for each piece.


Happy listening.

orpheus10
orpheus10 OP
8,668 posts
 

Dave, installing a cartridge is always an adventure; little tiny wires, and big fat clumsy fingers, handling something as fragile as a toothpick, and costing 1K; any slip can break that flimsier than a toothpick cantilever; that's when I'm sweating in the Winter time.

This is tech talk, if anyone wants to inquire about cartridge installation I will engage them, but I'm not a good salesman for analog because it's too expensive, plus there is only a little wiggle room for saving money, and cartridge is not a place you can find it.

As far as bang for the buck, I never expected room treatment would take a person so far. By applying absorption in different places around the room, I'm able to visualize partially what it will be like when I make it permanent.

Since this will be overall sound, that means a big boost on the audio rating scale. I'll try to compare this with the dollars and cents increase in components, to have an equal increase in total sound improvement.

It can take several upgrades in components, meaning number of components, to get a substantial increase in total sound improvement. This will be an interesting comparison; especially if we are considering "room treatment" as one component.


Enjoy the music.


dlcockrum's avatar
dlcockrum
2,190 posts
 
Hi o,

The wood body Grados came with a very nice stylus guard that stays in place until deliberately removed. If lost, careful application of light cardboard or paper strip bent into a "U" affixed with tape to the sides of the cartridge will work. A good pair of non-magnetic sharp-point precision tweezers to attach the signal wires is mandatory. When it comes time to set alignment, VTF, VTA, azimuth, etc. sans stylus guard, find your mental calm place and avoid caffeine, nicotine, etc. and disruptions from others. If you get aggravated, stop and return to it later.

Careful not to overtighten the threaded mounting screws if it is a wood body. Big headaches will result!

Best of luck o,
Dave
orpheus10 OP
8,668 posts
 

That was some very good advice Dave, and I will heed it; I might add to that, keep the tone arm locked down when not in use.

I used a Shure tracking force gauge, which might be accurate, but it's awfully clumsy, so I ordered a digital tracking force gauge. While I never had any problems in all these many years I've had that gauge, it seems my hands aren't as sure as they once were, and to be fumbling with something that's going to be so close to the cantilever is not a good idea.

In this hobby, everything must be evaluated, including age; my hands will have to be twice as study, if I'm to do that modification I talked about.

This new cartridge is absolutely fantastic, I don't see why you sold yours; maybe they made improvements since then, or I haven't reached the stage where you are. Or did the yen for a low output MC take over.

I got a long story to tell if you've got the time to listen:

I sold my "Audiolab" pre, and the guy called back and said there was nothing wrong with it, but he just didn't like it. So I said OK, send it back like you got it, and I'll return your money. That was the best thing that ever happened.

Now I use the MM phono on the Audiolab; it's absolutely perfect for me, and it's also perfect for a lot of other people who rave about it in the UK. It does absolutely "nothing"; no noise, inky black silence, and it doesn't change the sound of the Grado, one iota. Most people talk about what their phono stage does, and I rave about mine doing absolutely nothing, but amplify the signal like it's not even there.

Everything completes my philosophy of; "Nothing but the music."

I'll get back with you, probably before I complete the room treatment; I'm still waiting on the acoustic fabric, until then;


Enjoy the music.
dlcockrum's avatar
dlcockrum
2,190 posts
 
o,

The digital gauge is much better and less likely to damage your stylus than the see-saw gauge. Make sure that the one you bought is non-magnetic.

My Grado "The Reference" was the low-output version but I never cottoned to its sound in my system. There are thousands of audiophiles that love Grados.  If you like the sound, that's all that matters. 

I went to a HOMC Van den Hul MC Two (great cart if your phono section has limited gain) and then to the Transfiguration Orpheus L.  The better MCs have the sound that I crave in my hi-end system, yet I have several vintage MMs and Electrets that I love in my vintage system. 

I look forward to reading of your experiences with the acoustical treatment and will be glad to help in any way I can.

Best to you o,
Dave
orpheus10 OP
8,668 posts
 

Hello Dave, I've got all the material including the cloth, but now I have a bad case of the winter lazies; my get up and go, done got up and went.

Believe it or not, I bought this 2 inch thick, 4X8 corning insulation leaning up against the wall in the listening room, and I've got a fantastic sound stage, it seems to affect a broad range of frequencies, but not so much the base; which is just what I want.

Thanks again for the ideas.
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