Ohm Walsh Micro Talls: who's actually heard 'em?

Happy New Years everyone....

Tuesday will be the day my babies will come apart, I will add dampening to the cabinet, color change, and a full re-wiring,
some new caps and what ever else I can think of....

Stay safe...🇸🇪🎉

Day One....

Surgery starts, and a few thoughts.

Any time I take something apart I have this feeling of doom and a sense of what the f.... am I doing.
But the feeling always get shrugged of' and a calm I can fix anything (or effit up) comes over me.....

A double Espresso gives me a shot of needed "Kick in the ass" and off I go.

To separate the "can" from the main cabinet is child's play, Four wing nuts and the innards reveal them selfs in all its.......?

OK so I know I had some resentment brewing as All I had seen previously was a black spray painted 2x4 brace and that was it                  *****(this is were I apologize for flying of the hook without looking closer)****

Normally you would see X amount of acoustic dampening  occupy the speaker cavity, but here you have a three inch thick layer of fairly dense what looks like compressed recycled denim insulation.
On top there's a few inches of polyester/Dacron fill capped with a 
fabric mesh. Clean and simple and helping the filler from caving in to the speaker cavity is the port tube and some cross members.

The port tube is four inches in diameter, but steps down to what look like three inches towards the end of the cabinet. The outer and inner tube construction resembles something called an anti reversion step in an exhaust manifold, a very smart way to prevent reversion allowing for a smoother and less turbulent air flow...cool.

Back to the bracing of the cabinet, as the rest of the speaker cabinet is pretty much beautifully built, they did take time to do some cross bracing through out the cabinet. A mix of soft pine and birch plywood braces from top to bottom is making sure the cabinet is stiff in all directions. I also know that the truncated pyramid/sloped cabinets do prevent a lot of standing wave issues. 

I will most likely remove all the filler and line some sound deadening material throug out inside cabinet walls, and the bottom
will get a layer off elastomer and foam to stiffen the bottom of the cabinet.

I finally got my listening panel together (my kids) to see if they preferred the speaker with or without the rear tweeters in action.
And......yes the loved it with the tweeter playing, alive, fun, and the best they sounded so far.

So the rear  tweeters are staying, and will be installed flush with the cabinet in conjunction with the Volume control. All this should look
primo and very integrated.

Back to the "CAN" staring at it I could come up with tons of cool ways to make it look high tech, stem punk, Star Wars, or what ever
super cool solution, but JS decided on Death Star black with no personality, oh well.

On the bottom of the Ohm driver is a perforated steel sheet cover.
why did he do this? The pice is ringing like a son of a bitch when you tap it, that can't be good in my book so I will remove it and hopefully improve the sound. 

The plate holding the driver is a 3/4" sheet of plywood and the "can"
is installed with what looks like sheet metal screws in to the plywood. It works but mechanically it kind of sucks. The idea is to
do a 3/4" plywood/ 1/4" thick steel plate sandwich with laser cut holes around the opening. Threaded holes will allow for much better mechanical coupling and adjustability.

The outside bottom of the cabinet, has enough depth that I can
add a flared port and some extra material to deaden the bottom a little more......

Any way, got to go and work on these babies for a bit......🇸🇪

Back for a little update....

Got the cabinets all cleared out, vacuumed and prepped for sound deadening materials.
The "Cans" are taken apart and I finally figured out how he dampens and in the same time allows the cone to vibrate through the full frequency range, pretty cool indeed.

The more I'm considering a new design concept the more exiting it gets.
The thought is to move the switches and crossover down in to the cabinet, away from
magnets/drivers, and with that I can give the driver housing a new form factor. I will retain some perforated metal but I will use aluminum as is much deader, doesn't ring and it's also easier to form and anneal.
There will be no "Can" but a fresh new take on how I think it should look.
It could be Carbon Fiber, or Maple or both with my new matte blood red color scheme.
my bud the metal guy was here for Christmas and we will build the horizontal brace
from SS fully polished, vertical stand offs are also SS fully polished. I'm also considering a belt line right under the grille wrapping around the speaker also in SS.

This will be one sexy speaker when I'm done with it, it should look like it come out of a 
big manufacturers work shop all perfect....

Going to bed, more tomorrow I hope, and I told my son if a meteor hits me
go in the garage find the stuffing, the rest you can figure out.....lol 🇸🇪

Morning.....

Just woke up and all I could do was thinking about the speaker. What is that
crossover? or why is that crossover so damn complicated, is switches in the
audio path a good thing  (I honestly don't think so) but I might be wrong.
Would it be rational to simplify? would I see a gain in Transparancy? Or am I chasing
my tail? So I guess I'll make a flow chart were all the parts go and with that see if simplification is on the board. 

So the plan is to move the crossover either to a separate box outside the speaker
or install them on the bottom of the cabinet. Even though these are fairly large sized speakers space is not easy to come by due to the 4" tube and bracing.

peace out....🇸🇪

peterr53 - Remember that there is really only one setting of the switches that works for each listener in a given room.  If you want, you could make your settings permanent and fixed, and eliminate the switches.  This would reduce the speakers' utility in other rooms or for other listeners, however.