gdnrbob,
Thanks!
Yes I did do the DEQX calibration very useful tool.
ozzy
Amps Atma-Sphere M-60 Mono blocks OTL design
I just purchased a used OTL Atma-Sphere M-60 mono blocks that I have sent to Atma-Sphere to be upgraded to the current model 3.3 and I also added the option of a higher quality power supply and V caps.
I have sold my old trusted Eggleston Andra 2’s speakers and have built some monitors using Aurum Cantus ribbons (102db) and Aurum Cantus midwoofers (90db) that are both rated as 8 ohm nominal. I have a DEQX Premate and will be crossing over to (2) JL Audio F-113 subs at 80hz.
Currently I am using a solid state high power stereo amp (Pass Labs) that I used with the Andra 2’s.
The Atma-Sphere M-60 is rated at 60 watts class A and is said to work better with higher impedance loads.
It will probably be a few weeks until I get the M-60 and was hoping someone could provide opinions of what to expect.
I listen to late 60 early 70’s classic rock music mostly. Sometimes loud.
ozzy
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- 245 posts total
Bob, if you are interested in learning about DEQX, when you have some time available to read through a lengthy thread see the following one: https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/is-deqx-a-game-changer? And their website is worth visiting as well, of course: http://www.deqx.com/ I use their top of the line HDP-5 model, which serves as my preamp as well as providing speaker and room calibrations/corrections. (And yes, to answer your question those can be switched off or on at the touch of a button on either the remote or the front panel). My own experiences getting it dialed in, which at my slow and methodical pace extended over about 6 months, are reported in the above mentioned thread in posts between 5-16-2015 and 12-2-2015. Best regards, -- Al |
gdvrbob, almarg's earlier post that he references to above is what got me interested in the DEQX units. It is quite the animal. The one I have is the Premate+. I bought it used. It is a preamp, it analyzes your speakers + subwoofers, your room, and you can make corrections based on the graphs and charts produced. It also has a variable crossover for subwoofers including delay and gain adjustments. But, there is a stiff learning curve because it is a complex unit and the instructions are complete but in a confusing order. I have finally developed my own easy to follow notes that allows me to take measurements quicker. But it still can take 2-3 hours. ozzy |
It sounds like ozzy has gotten the amps to work in his system. I have some tips: The most important tubes for the sonics are the ones at the input of the amp. The precise location varies depending on when the amps were built (the M-60 has been in production in various forms since 1991). NOS 6SN7s get rolled into the amps quite often; the input tubes can be GTs. This means you can use Ken-Rad (of the NOS tubes they get the best marks from our customers), the Sylvania metal-base 'chrome domes' or the RCA Red Base (and its variant, the CBS Zalytron). But our customers have indicated that the Sophia, Psvane and TJMusic tubes seem to have all the best properties of the NOS tubes but without the weaknesses! Keep the speaker cables as short as possible and the speaker connections as tight as possible- but don't tighten them so hard that you strip the threads or you will really regret it! Tight connections do sound better. Ozzy sounds like he's running the amps on platforms. To test the efficacy of the platform, place isolation devices (squishies) beneath the amp and audition. If better, the platform isn't doing its job. If worse, then apply some sort of point system (Tip-toes, Stillpoints, etc.) to get the most out of the platform. Damping rings can be applied to the 6SN7s but not the power tubes. Power cords make a difference and the difference is measurable and audible. We've had excellent luck with the Purist Audio power cables and there are many more. Fuses can made a difference too, but the most important fuse is the one by the power cord, and that one is the speaker protection fuse. If a tube arcs and does its worst, that fuse is going to blow, so if you have a $30 fuse in there it can get old pretty fast. Of course in that regard, our experience is that the Russian 6H13s (the Russian version of the 6AS7G) hold up a lot better than the Chinese tubes. Set up on the right speaker we've seen them last many years. Never apply contact enhancers to the input connections or the tube sockets other than a light spray contact cleaner. Radio Shack sold a spray contact cleaner that was quite acceptable and you can also use the red and black DeOxit in a spray can. Anything stronger than that is asking for trouble. |
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