2. amps-preamps
  3. 129071-76532

Class D = Trash?

So, I'm on my second class D amp. The first one, a Teac AI-301DA which claimed to use an ICE module, was unlistenable trash. I burned it in for a few weeks, it just couldn't perform, so I sent it back. Following that, I tried the new Emotiva A-300 (class A/B). It was significantly better, but lacking in too many ways for my tastes. So I changed gears, got an 845 SET from China -- and it was an immediate and massive improvement.

So, before I went further down the SET road, I wanted to try a better class D product using a modern class D module. I settled on the D-Sonic M3-800S with the Pascal module and custom input stage. I read from reviews that these things like to have big cables, so I picked up an eBay 8 gauge power cable (Maze Audio, el-cheapo Oyaide copy plugs, braided 4-wire cable) to go along with it.

Mid-range GONE.
Soundstage depth CRUSHED.
Euphonics DISAPPEARED.

Yes, resolution went up. Driver control went up, allowing me to play compressed rock/pop and orchestra with the speakers being able to render it all. But enjoyment in the sound is basically gone. Using my best power cable (LessLoss Original) improved performance, but didn't fundamentally change the amp's nature. I ran back to my headphones (Focal Utopias) to detox my ear canals.

So, how long does a class D need to burn-in? I want to give it a fair shake before writing the technology off forever. 
madavid0
guidocorona
4,298 posts
 

madavid0, you can expect at least 600 hours to 1200 hours of break-in before a class D amp reaches peak performance.


Basically, owning a class D amp requires a modicum of patience... These are not instant gratifiers.


Like with any other classes of amps, some class D amps are extremely good, and other ones, hummmm.... Should best be marketed through Home Depot for chasing squirrels and other varmints from attics.


But no, I am not faintly implying that D-Sonic amps are poor... On the contrary. Most of them are based on Pascal power conversion modules, which are extremely good. Amps based on Pascal M-Pro2 and X-Pro2 or X-Pro1 are likely very good performers, if one is patient enough to break them in.


Lastly, feeding any amp with an arbitrary PC whose only claim to fame is its heavy gage may not be the most effective strategy for getting best results from such device, no metter its class of operation.


Saluti, Guido

 

cousinbillyl
190 posts
 
Mad David

Before I respond to your question: what source material do you have?

Do you listen to the crap that is CD?
Have you at least partially upgraded to SACD?
I doubt you know what DSD downloads refer to.

There is no hope in hell you've listened to vinyl in a long time, if ever.

You are the reason many of us have given up on this forum/website, idiots, all of you!!!!
glennewdick's avatar
glennewdick
1,729 posts
 
i'm a SET fan and own a 300b based integrated that's wonderful but hay its 8wch so not all need apply. but i have heard the Jeff Rowland class D stuff and frankly its quite nice ok expensive granted but class D can sound great if done right and the tech is coming along so hold out, i'm sure the tech will mature some and get fantastic. Until then i'll stick with my SET or a good class A ss but i'm open to new ideas  
Ag insider logo xs@2x
astewart8944
499 posts
 
I commend OP for the headline. It doesn't definitely say D amps are trash; it asks the question does D=trash. And then the body details his negative D amp experiences and poses the basic question: How long will burn in take before his D amp sounds better with his speakers. Guidocorona finally seeks to directly answer this question almost 16 hours after it is first posted. In between that time there's some informative posts that include the possibility/probability that it might not ever happen with his speakers. It's one of the reasons I continue to read the forums.
Peace
gregkohanmim
153 posts
 
Astewart - I will always read these threads because I'll always learn something.

In this case I learned that in one person's opinion:

  • Chane 1.4s, garbage 
  • Zu Omen Mk.II -- good dyanmics, okay-ish resolution, forward but shallow soundstage. 
  • Fritz Carbon 7 - Need to be run with tubes (based on reviews I researched)

And that if you're on a tight budget to get a good amplifier match to run Fritz bookshelf speakers in a pinch that Chinese copies available on eBay aren't that bad.

Actually - Here's what I learned:

Everyone has their own personal taste and idea of what "perfect" or "horrible" sound is.  Have also observed that these biases probably come from some other source, reason or event unrelated to the product itself (room, hearing, what you grew up liking, budget, etc.).

Good thing, is that there's something for everyone and all the fun is in pursuing your perfect sound and system within your ever-changing budget.

Happy to have a forum where we can openly discuss our own preferences and experiences with the very infrequent d*ck ruining everyone else's good time and enjoyment of their music and systems (literally I can count them on one hand).  

The vast majority of people here are true enthusiasts and very gracious.

As for burn-in...  Yes, burn in is a factor but if you don't like the sound (at least a little) "out of the box", it's doubtful you ever will even if the sound is correct and perfect for someone else.

Greg

More to discover