Eminent Technology ET-2 Tonearm Owners



Where are you? What mods have you done ?

I have been using these ET2's for over 9 years now.
I am still figuring them out and learning from them. They can be modified in so many ways. Bruce Thigpen laid down the GENIUS behind this tonearm over 20 years ago. Some of you have owned them for over 20 years !

Tell us your secrets.

New owners – what questions do you have ?

We may even be able to coax Bruce to post here. :^)

There are so many modifications that can be done.

Dressing of the wire with this arm is critical to get optimum sonics along with proper counterweight setup.

Let me start it off.

Please tell us what you have found to be the best wire for the ET-2 tonearm ? One that is pliable/doesn’t crink or curl. Whats the best way of dressing it so it doesn’t impact the arm. Through the spindle - Over the manifold - Below manifold ? What have you come up with ?
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Hey Harry,
Your explanation is very helpful. I'm not sure I have an issue with this as I've never messed with the top two bolts out of fear. The manual just says to adjust the bottom two. However, as I see that pic from Chris, the gap gauge he is using says .02 mm, and not inches. Am I reading it wrong with my bad eyes, or did you make a mistake on that info? That's a considerable difference! -smiles.
John 
Hey John.  
Actually, there are two numbers on Chris' feeler gauge, .020 followed by .508 mm which is the metric equivalent of .020 in.  It is very hard to read from the picture but it is the same as the feeler gauge I have.  I don't know if you bought your ET II new but if you are sure nobody has played with the top two bolts on the VTA block, you probably still have the factory setting and are good to go.
Harry

Thanks Harry,
I still think you should get an aluminum base. It's much more rigid and Bruce will cut you a good deal. After I got mine, it took me six mos to change it out, because you almost have to start from scratch, setting the arm back up. I didn't want to do the work at the time.
Cheers,
John 
Beautiful day been working on the Boat . Check out this picture showing the internals of a destroyed ET2 VTA block. See Bruce’ patented design.

Destroyed VTA Block

For a full picture of damage inflicted by this audiophile, see Pic 33 on my virtual system.

The problem with the one in this pic. The VTA bolts were closed, jamming the aluminum roller to the track. You can see how the aluminum roller caused a bald spot in the track. This VTA block will slip on that section and is no longer any good. The VTA blocks are all made on an individual basis with their specific manifold. For this reason Bruce can’t just send you another VTA Block if it has been destroyed.

So, when buying a used ET2 - this is the part, the VTA block, that you need to verify is in good shape because you can’t see it. Ask the seller to measure the gaps for you. If they are factory settings as discussed here, it’s a good sign it was not messed with like Harry said

Bolts uneven in gap, along with causing the VTA to not be accurate, will also put uneven pressure on the track and WILL wear the teeth out unevenly that the aluminum roller tracks. I keep all the 4 bolts the same in gap. open the gap more for less firmness  but keep the gap the same on the 4 bolts.

Harry - glad your magic is back. You have a lot of audio passion sir !


John,
I'll probably end up getting the aluminum base sooner or later.  Right now I've been tweaking and upgrading for over two months and have it where I'm very pleased with the result.  So for a while I'm going to subscribe to "if it ain't broke don't fix it."

Chris,
Nice down here in the lower colonies too.  Gonna have to plow the garden soon.  Audio passion?  How polite......Actually, I'm just retired and OC.  The best description I can give to where the system is now is while I'm trying to listen to the system to make sure the setup is correct I find myself listening to the music instead.
May you all have spot on VTA,
Harry