ESS speakers "Translinear" Transstatic

Hi my name is Art Galvan, if you are interested in old ESS stuff you are going to love this. I found the original AMT prototype built by Dr. Heil it was sold to me by the west coast sales rep for ESS who happened to be in Palo Alto, CA. the same day Dr. Heil was showing his new AMT driver to the owner of the store where he was looking for factory reps to carry the ESS line. Dr. Heil met the Salesman from ESS and the rest is history. The original AMT is now in the R&D Lab at Moore Industries where I work. drop me an e-mail if you would like to see it. agalvan@miinet.com

My name is George. I bought a pair of ESS bookshelf speakers in 1979 while a sophmore in college. I think they were the model PS-8. I thought they sounded great except the AMTs failed. ESS sent me replacements. As I remember it, ESS was not very friendly about it.
What is it about old audio gear from the 70's that makes you so nostalgic? Was it that the equipment was better, or that the times were better, or both?

How efficient are the AMT-1 models?

I currently own a pair of ESS Eclipse B102 studio monitors.
I would love to get some infos about them because they were heavily modified and I would like to see them in their original state.
My speakers came with a completly new enclosure in walnut finish. The old cones and the passive radiators have been replaced and the speakers were recabled. There were also new cable posts added and the speakers and the bases got nice spikes and a partial sand filling.

To Gary dated 01/14/07. The best thing you can do with the AMT-1 is too ditch the woofer and visit your local Car Stereo driver dealer and buy the best 4 ohm Sub bass driver that he stocks ( not neccesarily the most expensive . Cast chassis, not too tight a suspension ( VERY IMPORTANT )and about 89- 92 db per watt efficiency should do the trick. I myself have chosen a 10 in Kevlar type driver with a huge magnet assembly, cast chassis and have also done the capacitors up with all polyprops used and rewire as well. The bass driver preferably will have a lightweight cone ie Polyprop, Carbon fibre or kevlar as it needs to ba able to respond to about 1200 Hz to intergrate with the treble unit. As the crossover and efficency levels and the treble unit is originally a 4 ohn load a car sub driver is actually a great choice - just ignore the horrible paint and bling of the car sub drivers. Stay away from pressed steel chassis as well. Mine are fantastically inproved with the new driver.