jjss49 -
My S2P distance was off by 2 mm max resulting in unresolvable sibilance. Whether 1 mm makes an audible difference? Possibly but probably not the problem you are having anyway. If you can align the two null points simultaneously and the cantilever is exactly parallel to the lines, you’re OK.
Anti skate is a good bet as well as VTF. Set it on the high side. If you’re using a scale on the platter, the unipivot arm will be a tenth or two lighter at the record height. Azimuth and VTA "should" be near parallel with the platter. I use a Millennium Block to set the headshell (not the arm) parallel to the platter from both side and front, then dial in azimuth and VTA by ear. FWIW I have a Fozgometer and never use it. It requires dialing in by ear also and since the Block gets me in the ballpark way sooner, why bother? The key to it all is going back and re-checking everything after any adjustment and repeat, repeat, repeat until it’s right. It will take way more than an hour the first time.
My S2P distance was off by 2 mm max resulting in unresolvable sibilance. Whether 1 mm makes an audible difference? Possibly but probably not the problem you are having anyway. If you can align the two null points simultaneously and the cantilever is exactly parallel to the lines, you’re OK.
Anti skate is a good bet as well as VTF. Set it on the high side. If you’re using a scale on the platter, the unipivot arm will be a tenth or two lighter at the record height. Azimuth and VTA "should" be near parallel with the platter. I use a Millennium Block to set the headshell (not the arm) parallel to the platter from both side and front, then dial in azimuth and VTA by ear. FWIW I have a Fozgometer and never use it. It requires dialing in by ear also and since the Block gets me in the ballpark way sooner, why bother? The key to it all is going back and re-checking everything after any adjustment and repeat, repeat, repeat until it’s right. It will take way more than an hour the first time.