Is Spiking Necesarry?

Moving my speakers (Vandersteen Treo CTs) on their built-in spikes is difficult-to-dangerous by myself. I cut four pieces of 2 x 2 a bit longer than the speakers are wide , then slipped one under the front and one under the back of each speaker, as "skids." This lifts the spikes just clear of the floor and makes moving them quite a bit easier.

@john_g   What type of floor do you have your Treo CTs on?

Kalali, put a 2x2foot concrete paving slab from Home Depot under speakers.

I'll try the concrete slab idea and can put a few felt pads underneath to avoid scratching the wood floor. For now, I've put some isolation control pads - 3'x3' square 1' thick cork sandwiched between rubber, under the three ends of my 2Ci speaker metal stands and the bass is a little better controlled. Reinforcing the floor from basement ceiling is a good idea too. I'm guessing this is a common home construction style in northeast US or homes with a full basement.

I've been advised bass *always* sounds tighter and better defined when the speaker is on spikes, and there are two reasons for this.

1) Allowing some airflow under the bass of the speaker reduces floor coupling significantly, floor coupling adds bass (boundary effect) muddying the sound;

2) The pounds-per-square-inch for floor contact is like 1000 times higher with the spikes, giving much better coupling to the floor and preventing micro-motions of the entire speaker with bass energy, which causes IM distortion from the rest of the speaker;

All subtle, but, supposedly, instantly audible.

Also, speakers tend to look "kewler" with the spikes on :)