Curved and Straight Tonearms


Over the last 40 years I have owned 3 turntables. An entry level Dual from the '70's, a Denon DP-52F (which I still use in my office system) and a Rega P3-24 which I currently use in my main system. All of these turntables have had straight tonearms. I am planning on upgrading my Rega in the near future. Having started my research, I have noticed that some well reviewed turntables have curved 'arms. My question: What are the advantages/disadvantages of each, sonic or otherwise? Thanks for any input. 
ericsch
Lewm, depending on cartridge compliance, you can easily match with different headshells. There are headshells from 8g all the way to 18g so you are pretty much covered. Yes both the 64s and 66s are amazing arms till today. I personally own over 25 arms (lost count) and that is still one of my top performer.

I have modern arms like the Reed, Dynavector, Graham Phantom 2 and Graham Elite and of course the SME V just to name a few and the FR is just as good or better when set up correctly.  

Setting the FR up properly is the key. In another thread the correct P to S distance for the 64s was said to be 231.5mm and best aligned with the Dennessen Protractor. I have several protractors for the arm. A Wally tracktor and the Dr Feikert and they do not sound close to what a dennessen does. I have mounted and set up many of the 64s for friends and clients and all of them are shocked what the arm is capable of. 

Finally since this thread is about straight vs curved arms, there is really no best but more different. All types have their pros and cons. Buy whatever that sounds good and works for you. That's why you need a turntable that has the capability to take more than one arm.

Genesis 168, For those who swear by following the user manual

you should mention that ''P to S'' distance as prescribed in the

manual is 230 mm. Not 231,5 mm. The later is recommended

by the first German review of the FR-64 S tonearm by ''Das Ohr"

Magazine in April 1984. ''Our'' dertonarm was back than reviewer

by this Magazine.

This is of course the so called ''Bearwald geometry'' while Ikeda's

230 mm ''means'' Stevenson .

Nandric, you are correct. I have tried both and highly recommend 231.5 especially on the dennessen. 

I am using 231.5, because I took a cue from The Tonearm, several years ago.  I even aligned it with the UNItractor, the official protractor of The Tonearm, also known to me privately as the Super Dennesen.  Using the FR64S template in the UNI, also supplied to me by DT. Thus I must be in Baerwald alignment.

Nandric, When I received my FR64S from Japan, the bearing was "stiff".  I actually followed the advice given, to leave it in the sun.  A few hours on our kitchen table in the direct sunlight coming through the window was sufficient to loosen it up.  Neither of our two sons tried to eat it. I've never had to do another heat treatment since then.
Lewm, the uni is the only better alignment tool for any Tonearm. Noticeably better than the dennessen. But not that affordable. I own one because I do setups and installs and it's by far the best tool in the market as far as universality, ease of use and precision.