Curved and Straight Tonearms

I am using 231.5, because I took a cue from The Tonearm, several years ago.  I even aligned it with the UNItractor, the official protractor of The Tonearm, also known to me privately as the Super Dennesen.  Using the FR64S template in the UNI, also supplied to me by DT. Thus I must be in Baerwald alignment.

Nandric, When I received my FR64S from Japan, the bearing was "stiff".  I actually followed the advice given, to leave it in the sun.  A few hours on our kitchen table in the direct sunlight coming through the window was sufficient to loosen it up.  Neither of our two sons tried to eat it. I've never had to do another heat treatment since then.

Lewm, the uni is the only better alignment tool for any Tonearm. Noticeably better than the dennessen. But not that affordable. I own one because I do setups and installs and it's by far the best tool in the market as far as universality, ease of use and precision. 

Dear @genesis168 : When you change the P to S tionearm distance ( in any arm. ) you are changing too the effective length and between some limit range on that alignment parameter number what you are doing is to increment or lowering the tracking distortion figure and tracking error too.

Using Löfgren A ( Baerwald ) and going from 245 ( FR spec. ) to 248.13 ( 231.5 ) means that you have a little lower distortion levels but you can play with those parameters and test for example: 256 on EL and this again will gives you lower tracking distortions figure and any one can do it. Obviously that we can do it between some limits due that the tonearms has a limited length and headshells too, so it’s only to make some tests to see where you can go with better results and I repeat you can do this for any tonearm that permits it.

We can do that it does not matters if we are using Löfgren A or B or Stevenson alignments.

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.

Dear Nandric, Should I dip it in only the finest olive oil from Don Corleone?  I am loathe to disassemble precision devices that I may not be able to re-assemble properly.  In other words, my inclination is to let well enough alone.  I went through this dilemma with the L07J tonearm from my Kenwood L07D.  I was determined to upgrade the wiring and to create a continuous run from cartridge to phono stage, but I could not get the vertical piece of the arm structure to disengage from the horizontal piece, so as to get behind the one-of-a-kind Kenwood DIN plug and access the internal wiring.  I got it loose, but the two pieces would not give up their death grip on one another.  Rather than to risk total destruction of an irreplaceable item (as the bearings go rolling across my basement floor), I gave up. Discretion is the better part of valor, they say. Instead, I plan to run the new wire outside of the arm tube, totally bypassing the internal wiring.

Re position of the lateral counter-wt on the FR64S: I think I do have a copy of the owners manual, but I never consulted it as regards the lateral weight. I will do so now.