Fair enough ei001h. I have found that a good way to separate the wheat from the chaff on opposing recommendations is to view the Virtual System pages of each in order to gauge credibility.
Dave
Dave
power for mc452 and c2600
I'm relatively new to high end audio. Had a mcintosh integrated amp for few years and now decided to upgrade to separates. Just received c2600 preamp and awaiting on mc452 amp due to arrive sometime next week.
I don't know anything about power conditioners and protection devices. currently using monster surge protector. My questions:
1. what is the minimum protection device that one would use for my equipment
2. does it have to be a power conditioner or just surge protection
3. how much do these "power conditioners" contribute to the overall performance? Can you objectively measure their effect? Can they worsen the performance in any way by limiting power?
4. is there a real difference in relatively affordable (200-500) vs. higher price units (1000 and above) ?
5. What are you using and what is your experience with it?
6. Your recommendation on units with good reputation under $500
thank you
I don't know anything about power conditioners and protection devices. currently using monster surge protector. My questions:
1. what is the minimum protection device that one would use for my equipment
2. does it have to be a power conditioner or just surge protection
3. how much do these "power conditioners" contribute to the overall performance? Can you objectively measure their effect? Can they worsen the performance in any way by limiting power?
4. is there a real difference in relatively affordable (200-500) vs. higher price units (1000 and above) ?
5. What are you using and what is your experience with it?
6. Your recommendation on units with good reputation under $500
thank you
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- 60 posts total
The ideal of 20amp or even 30amp from your circuit box and appropriate gauge electrical wiring would be ideal. I currently use a PS Audio P10 powerplant with PS Audio Power port outlets. (3 pairs) 6 outlets in total. I have 2 (250 Watt Amps) and all sources connected to P10, with exception of turntable and Tube Preamp. No hold back for power, it is there, no ’lag’. Having said that there is a third amplifier (350 Watt) Rotel RB 1590 plugged directly into one of the PS Audio wall outlets it is running B&W 804s. I use a basic Mx82 Furman line conditioner for my Tube preamp and turntable. Primary preamplifier C47 McIntosh connected to P10 for protection. |
ps7256 The ideal of 20amp or even 30amp from your circuit box and appropriate gauge electrical wiring would be idealA 30A line would be problematic because it would require a 30A receptacle. That won't be compatible with the plugs on your audio equipment, and I don't see any value in changing them to accommodate the 30A line. It would be better to use a 20A line and derate the cable to 10 AWG, which will help reduce voltage drop on the circuit. |
dlcockrum, out of curiosity, have you or anyone you know compared the 30A breaker with a 20A fuse to see/ hear a sonic difference? I'm no electrician but my guess is the dedicated 20A along with a lower gauge 10awg wire are making the difference you perceive to hear since regardless of how much current your amp is drawing, you're limited by the cable drawing it from the wall. Really like to hear someone with more knowledge to chime in with some explanation. I have a friend who was had this obsession with wanting to feed his Krell KSA-250 with the best power it could reasonably get in his house and after trying all different options including a handful of power conditioners, he finally decided on a dedicated 20A using the same wire you used. He does however unplug the entire system if there's even a remote chance of a thunderstorm. |
- 60 posts total