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power for mc452 and c2600

I'm relatively new to high end audio. Had a mcintosh integrated amp for few years and now decided to upgrade to separates. Just received c2600 preamp and awaiting on mc452 amp due to arrive sometime next week. 

I don't know anything about power conditioners and protection devices. currently using monster surge protector. My questions: 

1. what is the minimum protection device that one would use for my equipment
2. does it have to be a power conditioner or just surge protection
3. how much do these "power conditioners" contribute to the overall performance? Can you objectively measure their effect? Can they worsen the performance in any way by limiting power? 
4. is there a real difference in relatively affordable (200-500) vs. higher price units (1000 and above) ? 
5. What are you using and what is your experience with it? 
6. Your recommendation on units with good reputation under $500

thank you 
ei001h
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cleeds
6,033 posts
 
ps7256
The ideal of 20amp or even 30amp from your circuit box and appropriate gauge electrical wiring would be ideal
A 30A line would be problematic because it would require a 30A receptacle. That won't be compatible with the plugs on your audio equipment, and I don't see any value in changing them to accommodate the 30A line. It would be better to use a 20A line and derate the cable to 10 AWG, which will help reduce voltage drop on the circuit.
dlcockrum's avatar
dlcockrum
2,190 posts
 
We have been in this crossfire before cleeds. I have 30A breakers and 10AWG (orange jacket) Romex connected to 20A receptacles.  I feel it gives me a touch more headroom for high-current amps and my house is still standing after many years with such. You win on code, but I win on sound.

Dave
kalali's avatar
kalali
1,977 posts
 

dlcockrum, out of curiosity, have you or anyone you know compared the 30A breaker with a 20A fuse to see/ hear a sonic difference? I'm no electrician but my guess is the dedicated 20A along with a lower gauge 10awg wire are making the difference you perceive to hear since regardless of how much current your amp is drawing, you're limited by the cable drawing it from the wall. Really like to hear someone with more knowledge to chime in with some explanation. I have a friend who was had this obsession with wanting to feed his Krell KSA-250 with the best power it could reasonably get in his house and after trying all different options including a handful of power conditioners, he finally decided on a dedicated 20A using the same wire you used. He does however unplug the entire system if there's even a remote chance of a thunderstorm.

dlcockrum's avatar
dlcockrum
2,190 posts
 
Hi kalili,

That is one comparison that I have not done. The 30A breaker cost a few dollars more than the 20A and that made it a no-brainer to me for use with my Krell FPB-600C (6,000w/ch @ 1 ohm/115+A peak current output per JA’s measurements), my primary amp at the time of the electrical work. Used a SR UHC 20A IEC power cord from wall or power enhancer to the Krell.

This allowed for the possible instantaneous current draw of >20A on peaks without creating an electrical hazard IMO.

Re: your friend’s decisions vs mine, I ran that Krell through my "at the time" SR Powercell 10 (non-current limiting) power conditioner along with 100% of my other components. Painstaking comparison of that configuration vs amp directly to the wall receptacle proved the former to yield clearly audible superior sonic results.

Sorry that you do not consider my expertise sufficient, perhaps it is not. No hard feelings! :)

Dave

mhztweaker
13 posts
 
You will find a LOT of opinions here, I am no different.

I equate Monster, Bose, Beats Audio with very successful marketing companies and will never have a place in my mind as respectable audio companies.

I do own a McIntosh MC352, a Krell KRC-3 preamp and a lot of other source components.

I have four 20 amp breakers with four runs of 10gauge orange romex to each of my Hubbell HBL5362W outlets. The MC352 has it's own dedicated outlet as well as each of the 2 amps that run my dual subwoofers. My other source components run off another 20 amp circuit and through PowerVAR toroidial filters. I have had no issues running my amps directly from the outlets.

I cannot understand cheaping out on power devices when I know those 2 McIntosh source components cost in excess of $10k.

Plug the amps into the wall and maybe look into Shunyata, PS Audio or Equi=Tech products for protection.
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