Why is good, deep bass so difficult? - Myths and their Busters


This is a theme that goes round and round and round on Audiogon. While looking for good sources, I found a consultancy (Acoustic Frontiers) offering a book and links:

http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/guide-to-bass-optimization/?utm_source=CTA

Interestingly: AF is in Fairfax, CA, home to Fritz Speakers. I really have to go visit Fairfax!

And a link to two great articles over at sound and vision:

https://www.soundandvision.com/content/schroeder-frequency-show-and-tell-part-1
https://www.soundandvision.com/content/schroeder-frequency-show-and-tell-part-2

Every audiophile who is dissatisfied with the bass in their room should read these free resources.

Let me state unequivocally, deep bass is difficult for the average consumer. Most audiophiles are better off with bass limited speakers, or satellite/subwoofer systems. The former limits the danger you can get into. The latter has the most chance of success IF PROPERLY IMPLEMENTED.

The idea that large drivers/subs are slow is a complete and utter myth. Same for bass reflex. The issue is not the speed of the drivers. The issue is usually that the deeper a speaker goes the more it excites room modes, which the audiophile is then loathe to address.

Anyway, please read away. I look forward to reading comments.
erik_squires
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i actually know what 16 HZ sounds and feels like....on Sundays

My video system goes down to 16 Hz - but really you don't hear as much as feel at that frequency!

My main audio system is 3 dB down at 20 Hz - adequate for just about any music.  You can be happy with speakers that have not much below 30 Hz, but once you know what is there, it is hard not to miss it.
Hi @cousinbillyl

Slightly different topic. That is about perceived impact and multi-way speaker design with passive filters. Impact is not actually deep bass. That’s just regular bass. :)

A powered subwoofer would skip the inductor/filter issue altogether.

Not the first time I have read this statement, so there may be some truth to that, but there are a couple of myths too. Good cored inductors with very low DC start rather inexpensively. The issue with designing a low pass filter is more complicated than merely reducing the DCR. No one should start replacing coils willy-nilly. There are a number of issues that can be introduced by doing so.

Best,

E
gkr:

The amps and speaker matching are certainly a factor. I remember the first time I really heard a difference in amps was watching the dealer swap in a Tandberg to play Snell A/IIIs.

Remarkable power, smoothness and extension. I was quite enamored. The "trick" to the Snell's bass was woofers with significant amounts of added mass however, so it is unlikely these drivers have survived up until now.

I recently owned a Tandberg amp again, though, and have to concur with the original reviews which called them grainy on the mid/treble. << sigh >>

harry:

Very few speaker designers really appreciate the value of designing speakers for a room / location instead of quasi-anechoic. That's how I design mine and it's a huge help.

Best,

E

For great bass you must isolate your speakers from there environment, remove the spikes and replace with Townshend Audio Seismic Podiums or Seismic Speaker Bars, your speakers will then be free from any boom or distortion which will allow you to hear/fill your speakers best bass performance plus the rest of the frequency’s become much clearer open and natural
please check Max Townshend you tube video Spikes v Podiums
I use Podiums with my Sound labs Dynatats my bass is awesome, the hole sound has improved good luck but great bass is very possible once you have isolated your speakers from there environment.