Magico S5 Speaker - SET UP ADVICE PLEASE - Tow-In - Etc.


Any Magico Owners or Dealers or Folks or anyone that may have some basic advice, ideas or feedback from hearing or seeing in a friends, dealers system or owned older version of Magico or something like or anything really that can help me? How are yours or theirs set up? The smallest moves makes huge changes and I am coming from speakers that are so very different so any and all feedback would so welcomed.

I CAN EMAIL YOU PICS of Room / Set up / Etc  fsmthjack at YAH00

THANK YOU

BACKGROUND INFO:

ROOM:                         24 x 14 with cathedral ceilings 
MUSIC:                        Good mix - no hard metal / large orchestra and the like
LOUDNESS:                normal levels - just loud enough to sound best
SPEAKERS                  Magico S5 Speakers
AMP:                            Pass Labs X350.5 Amp
SOURCE:                     Bricasti M1SE DAC
TRANSPORT:               mircoRendu 1.4 w/Full suite of Uptone Audio products
CABLES                       HiDiamond Full Loom 
CONDITIONER            HiDiamond HDX2
SUBWOOFERS           (2) Sumiko S.9 Subs (hoping not needed with new Magico's) 

Thanks guys - I am kind of lost here and any help or feedback to get me heading in the right directions would be so appreciated.







128x128Ag insider logo xs@2xfsmithjack
Fsmithjack,

Here are a few ideas for you;

1: Enormous improvement moderate cost $1,200.00 get a set of Isoacoustics Gaia footers the Gaia Ones can handle 200 pounds so your 220 weight is still workable.

The Gaias make an amazing improvment in tightining bass and createing a much more focused soundstage and make everything more clean without grain. These are one of the true wonders in audio, way, way better than spikes.

2: Move to a power conditioner that will work wonders, a Running Springs, Audience, or Audio Magic are so far the best we have tested.
An Audience 6TS demo like the ones we have are sold for around $3k and they can make a huge improvement. The Audience has a nice effect in adding a nice sense of warmth without making things too dark like some conditioners they also don’t limit current. Your HDX2 is built more like a star grounded distributor with a surge supressor then a power conditioner like an Audience or a Running Springs which use inductive and capacitive filtering which is really effective at removing grunge. The HDX2 seems like it is designed to distribute and absorb surges rather than being a mega filter.

3: Move your speakers further apart and increase the toe in. This generally moves some of the tweeter energy away from the ear and increases the soundstage and sense of realism.

4: Add Isoacoustics footers $20 each $60 for a set of three under your components. again makes everything less grainy.

5: Move into a real server rather than the Micro Rendu with a lot of uptone stuff, you may be surprised at how much better a well designed server is.

http://www.hifiplus.com/articles/innous-zenith-mkii-music-server/?page=2

http://www.the-ear.net/review-hardware/innuos-zen-mkii-network-server


I would do the above steps first, the Kubala cables are warm however they only get good with the Emotion, and great with the Elation. We were dealers for a while. The Enklein cables were better so we parted ways with Kubala.

Again, if you want us to come up we offer a very comprehensive setup service that will work wonders, so I would inquire what Goodwins will change you and compare the rates to ours.

As per your previous point, it is not how good the components are it is how they work synergistically. What works for one speaker and setup will not necessaily work with another and moving from your original speakers which use a custom version of a Lowther design,  to Magico is dramatically different type of loudspeaker technology and sound.

Dave owner
Audio Doctor NJ


Glad to hear of the good progress!

Regarding...
I was hooking the subs before to the black terminal. Do you think if I ever hook them up again I should avoid that? I did it with my Rethm’s and it worked good but your info is great info!
Assuming that the sub has a three-prong power plug, yes I would avoid connecting in that manner.

To explain why, I’ll first mention that in good designs circuit ground (also referred to as signal ground) will often be connected to chassis through a low value resistor, commonly somewhere between 10 and 100 ohms. In some cases circuit ground and chassis may even be connected directly together (i.e., through zero ohms), although that is poor design because it results in susceptibility to ground loop issues. Also, if the component has a three-prong power plug chassis will usually be connected to AC safety ground.

So in cases where BOTH the sub and the amp have three-prong power plugs, connecting the negative output terminal of a fully balanced amp to the negative speaker-level input of a sub (which is presumably connected to the sub’s circuit ground in most cases) would result in the signal that is present on the amp’s negative output terminal being sent through some unknown but probably low impedance in the sub to the sub’s chassis, then to its AC safety ground connection, then through the power wiring to the amp’s AC safety ground connection, then to the amp’s chassis, then through some unknown but probably low impedance in the amp to the amp’s circuit ground. Resulting in the circuit in the amp which drives its negative output terminal probably being loaded by somewhere between 0 ohms (a direct short) and 200 ohms. If that value is low enough, obviously the amp may either be damaged or forced into a protective shutdown mode. But even if the resistors are high enough in value to avoid that kind of issue, and to prevent sonics from being affected, one or both of the resistors might eventually blow as a result of having to handle more power than they are rated to handle.

I’ve seen a number of cases here where people using REL subs have reported connecting in that manner and getting away with it, presumably because the resistors were high enough in value to prevent a problem. But at best it is not good practice, and as I said it risks overheating and damaging the resistors eventually if not sooner.

Continued good luck! Regards,
-- Al

P.S: I just found the following statement in the manual for the X350.5, which was apparently written before the version of the amp which provides a signal ground terminal was introduced:
Some powered subwoofers require an audio signal ground reference and their makers may suggest that a black speaker terminal is where this voltage reference might be found. On complementary designs, which would be typical of all power amps produced by Pass Laboratories™, this is an incorrect and unsafe assumption. On all Pass Laboratories™ power amplifiers a reference of 0 volts will be found only at pin 1 of the XLR input or at the shell of the RCA input.

Reference connections for these devices require special consideration when used with our product. If you have such a device, and wish to use it with our product, please contact our Foresthill, California factory for specific instructions.... you have been warned.
Regards,
-- Al

Get the grills off the speakers!!! All Fixed. My S3 are different speakers with grills on and off. That's why they are optional. 
Have you tried the Cardas speaker positioning? 
http://www.cardas.com/speaker_placement.php
The speakers look like they should be pulled out, from the front wall more?
You've got a coffee table in front of the listening sofa along with the TV/rack between the speakers. Room treatment?

 Game over, if you're expecting "high performance" sonics. At least  that's what some of those "audio experts" might mention, looking at the pics?

It appears the system is in a "living space" so WAF,aesthetics,etc also limiting ultimate SQ?

With all that nice gear,speakers and doodads, it's a shame you're not satisfied.
And I see suggestions for MORE doodads! 

Good luck.