The new Synergistic Research BLUE fuses ....


New SR BLUE fuse thread ...

I’ve replaced all 5 of the SR BLACK fuses in my system with the new SR BLUE fuses. Cold, out of the box, the BLUE fuses stomped the fully broken-in SR BLACKS in a big way. As good as the SR BLACK fuses were/are, especially in comparison with the SR RED fuses, SR has found another break-through in fuses.

1. Musicality ... The system is totally seamless at this point. Its as if there is no system in the room, only a wall to wall, front to back and floor to ceiling music presentation with true to life tonality from the various instruments.

2. Extension ... I’ve seemed to gain about an octave in low bass response. This has the effect of putting more meat on the bones of the instruments. Highs are very extended, breathing new life into my magic percussion recordings. Vibes, chimes, bells, and triangles positioned in the rear of the orchestra all have improved. I’ve experienced no roll-off of the highs what so ever with the new BLUE fuses. Just a more relaxed natural presentation.

3. Dynamics ... This is a huge improvement over the BLACK fuses. Piano and vibes fans ... this is fantastic.

I have a Japanese audiophile CD of Flamenco music ... the foot stomps on the stage, the hand clapping and the castanets are present like never before. Want to hear natural sounding castanets? Get the BLUE fuses.

4. Mid range ... Ha! Put on your favorite Ben Webster album ... and a pair of adult diapers. Play Chris Connor singing "All About Ronnie," its to die for.

Quick .... someone here HAS to buy this double album. Its a bargain at this price. Audiophile sound, excellent performance by the one and only Chris Connor. Yes, its mono ... but so what? Its so good you won’t miss the stereo effects. If you’re the lucky person who scores this album, please post your results here.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ULTRASONIC-CLEAN-The-Finest-Of-CHRIS-CONNOR-Bethlehem-Jazz-1975-NM-UNPLAYED-...

Overall impressions:

Where the RED fuses took about 20 hours to sound their best, and the BLACK fuses took upwards of 200 hours of total break-in, the BLUE fuses sounded really good right out of the box ... and that’s without doing anything about proper directional positioning. Not that the BLUE fuses don’t need breaking in, they do. The improvement continues through week three. Its a gradual break-in thing where each listening session is better than the last.

Everything I described above continues to break new ground in my system as the fuses continue breaking in. Quite honestly, I find it difficult to tear myself away from the system in order to get things done. Its truly been transformed into a magical music machine. With the expenditure of $150.00 and a 30 day return policy there’s really nothing to lose. In my system, its like upgrading to a better pre amp, amp, CD player or phono stage. Highly recommended.

Kudos to Ted Denney and the entire staff at SR. Amazing stuff, guys. :-)

Frank

PS: If you try the SR BLUE fuses, please post your results here. Seems the naysayers, the Debbie Downers and Negative Nellie’s have hijacked the original RED fuse thread. A pox on their houses and their Pioneer receivers.

Frank



128x128oregonpapa
I actually did test of a pile of SR fuses a while back and found that they did nothing special at all except for a melting issue (!) seemingly due to a poor fuse rating. Nothing when compared to the $2 Littelfuse products I generally use. Zero. So, regardless of the SR fans who claim to not wonder at all about how or why the SR fuse magic manifests itself (and my ongoing utter disbelief of the claims of profound audio tonal improvement from use of a "special" fuse), my question remains…Ted Denney…you listening? Maybe provide a simple answer, or a complicated answer, or something, as I’m not the only one who would like to know. Thanks in advance.
Whoa! Huh? Wolf didn't hear the fuse? Oh, well. File under That's the way the cookie crumbles. 🍪

There is just no mistaking the sonic improvements of the SR line of fuses over several years in my system.  Their value is to extend the useful life of the component you may have wanted to upgrade.  Spending 2K on fuses has been far more economical to me than spending untold thousands more. 
How do they work?  They are better conductors than the tiny filaments in glass---question is, how much are they part of the circuit?  Wolf, you seem to be hung up on this aspect.  Perhaps Al can define the various positions of fuses and their part in signal conduction. I know if I remove the fuses from the AC main inputs, the equipment won't work at all.  I believe the fuses in my Maggie 3.6 tweeter and midrange fuse bank are part of the final signal pathway.  Are they the complete pathway, or are they a shunt to receive an overload?  How about the AC position--and the rail fuse?  
As I pointed out on (I think) a different post, there are 3 levels of fuses out there with the first two for commercial use. The 1st level is the cheap, standard fuse that varies more than it should concerning it's rating and the next level up are the boutique fuses which melt exactly when they should. 

If you're device is drawing more current than what it should, maybe you need to take a long, hard look at your component and find out why it's doing what it shouldn't be doing.

All the best,
Nonoise
Furutech fuses are rebranded Padis. The only difference Furutech's are cryo treated (and more expensive :) ). Padis rolled off in highs doesn't mean it's not bright. 
Furutech: bright, dynamic, detailed, lean. Padis must share "the housesound" . I haven't tried Padis though.
Hifi Tuning Supreme (silver) is slightly bright and lean,  Supreme Cardas is a different story.