nenon,
Reading from your subsequent posts, I think maybe I've been going about this all wrong. Since you're building your own amp And you need the switch installed at the rear panel before the fuse and power supply, then that may change our game entirely. It will be easy IF you have room enough in your chassis to swing it, but here we can likely dispense with considering the usual small, or "miniaturized", switches and focus on the "large" switches instead. These (heavy duty) switches have a form factor that allows them to be a drop-in replacement into a standard residential light switch...I know this is a rather large size to think about putting in an amp build, but I think this likely the way to go and I'll tell you why.
With the form factor this large, all your wire gauge and soldering concerns are eliminated. Just one I happened to look at from Hubble (HBL 1201IL) has a solid copper contact arm with both large contact, surface patches being silver (not some silver alloy) (necessary in these larger, heavy-duty switches to prevent welding). The contact arm and internal wiring are generously beefy and you just connect your large gauge wires to the screw terminals, same as with any other light switch - no soldering at all, and the contacts can be cleaned out as often as you ever need. This switch comes in single-pole, 15A, 20A and 30A. Online prices for these types of switches appear to be roughly anywhere between $20 to $50 each, depending.
But, like I say, maybe the only real concern with this type switch is whether or not your chassis can be made to accommodate the larger size and how difficult it will be to drill for the switch cutout. Exact dimensions are always available online with these large switches, along with all the specs.
But, in short: heavy duty, correct amperage rating for your app, best materials, easy to connect/disconnect.
Even if it's a challenge to install something like this in your rear panel from a practical standpoint, I think that I would much rather try this than a circuit breaker since (you guessed it) they too degrade the sound (as virtually Any switch or connector can be expected to do, really)...even the ones in our circuit breaker box, but there's not all that much that can be done about that, of course.
Hope this helps.
Reading from your subsequent posts, I think maybe I've been going about this all wrong. Since you're building your own amp And you need the switch installed at the rear panel before the fuse and power supply, then that may change our game entirely. It will be easy IF you have room enough in your chassis to swing it, but here we can likely dispense with considering the usual small, or "miniaturized", switches and focus on the "large" switches instead. These (heavy duty) switches have a form factor that allows them to be a drop-in replacement into a standard residential light switch...I know this is a rather large size to think about putting in an amp build, but I think this likely the way to go and I'll tell you why.
With the form factor this large, all your wire gauge and soldering concerns are eliminated. Just one I happened to look at from Hubble (HBL 1201IL) has a solid copper contact arm with both large contact, surface patches being silver (not some silver alloy) (necessary in these larger, heavy-duty switches to prevent welding). The contact arm and internal wiring are generously beefy and you just connect your large gauge wires to the screw terminals, same as with any other light switch - no soldering at all, and the contacts can be cleaned out as often as you ever need. This switch comes in single-pole, 15A, 20A and 30A. Online prices for these types of switches appear to be roughly anywhere between $20 to $50 each, depending.
But, like I say, maybe the only real concern with this type switch is whether or not your chassis can be made to accommodate the larger size and how difficult it will be to drill for the switch cutout. Exact dimensions are always available online with these large switches, along with all the specs.
But, in short: heavy duty, correct amperage rating for your app, best materials, easy to connect/disconnect.
Even if it's a challenge to install something like this in your rear panel from a practical standpoint, I think that I would much rather try this than a circuit breaker since (you guessed it) they too degrade the sound (as virtually Any switch or connector can be expected to do, really)...even the ones in our circuit breaker box, but there's not all that much that can be done about that, of course.
Hope this helps.