Amp recommendation and setup advice please


Hello,

I love music and I adore quality sound - I cannot listen to music on ordinary speakers/devices.

I have been trying to do my research on sound systems/speakers/amps etc.. and learn/understand the whole shebang, but I'm not that much of a tech head. 

I want to buy the Klipsch RF-7 II tower speakers (I think they are passive, hence requiring an amp). 

I want them for both my new TV and also the vinyl/turntable setup I am going for, which is as follows:

Turntable - ProJect Debut Carbon Premium with Ortofon 2M RED (cartridge)
Phono (pre-amp) - ProJect Phono Box DS
Speakers - as above
Subwoofer - thinking either Klipsch R-12SW or R112SW
Amp - ??

I have a few questions:

1. Am I on the right tracks for having all the essentials?
2. Can someone recommend a good amp to power my speakers and sub please, and does the sub need powering or does it have it's own amp? 
3. Do I need a DAC for TV and connection to laptop? If so can you recommend a good one please? I was thinking of Audioengine D1 Premium 24 bit DAC Interface Connector.
4. Please suggest any alternative products if any of the stuff I mentioned are no good or don't fit together that well.
5. How would I set all of this up? Do I need anything else?
6. Do I need more speakers? I'm worried that the sub may be too much bass and drown out the tower speakers. 

I apologise for my lack of knowledge - I've just signed up here because I read that I could get advice and guidance from enthusiasts and experts. I know that my questions and post may frustrate some of you as I may have made some rookie mistakes, and perhaps this type of post has been done a 100 or so times but wasn't sure how to get answers/help. 

Many kind thanks in advance!

Mo
laher

Let’s look at the Audio-GD models:

NFB-29.28 : RCA output only 

NFB-28.28 : RCA + XLR outputs

Internally, these two models are almost exactly the same.  The “28” model output stage is engineered to work for XLR balanced output.  This means that the “29” RCA-only model is a tiny bit better when using RCA cables.  In your situations, this is pretty much splitting hairs and I don’t think you would really notice the difference.  You would be better off getting the “28” RCA+XLR model so that you could support both types of cables if you wanted.

As I said, the Yamaha HS80M only has XLR and 1/4" TRS inputs.  You can get special RCA-to-TRS cables on ebay and other places.  These are typically pro-audio cables and are made by vendors such as HOSA or Mogami.  They will NOT be as good as Audioquest cables.  HOSA cables are cheap.  Mogami can be pretty okay (probably good enough for your situation).

None of the audiophile cable makers will have special RCA-to-TRS cables.  You could always have somebody chop the ends and wire them into TRS connectors, but it’s more labor and money obviously.  I think it’s better just to get the “28” model so that you can get audiophile level XLR cables to connect to the Yamaha monitors.

If you ended up already ordering the “29” model and cannot change the order, you can try to get some Mogami RCA-to-TRS cables.  Or something on UK Ebay such as:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pseudo-Balanced-RCA-Phono-to-TRS-Jack-Lead-PAIR-Van-Damme-Starquad-Cable/172382399235?hash=item2822caab03:m:mTnMtSg5Z26b_pog38jH39g

----

As far as your preamp question, the NFB-29.28 or NFB-28.28 are already preamps that have a DAC built-in.  We call it a “preamp” because it has the ability to adjust the volume up/down via the front panel knob or remote.  You can get a separate preamp if you wanted, but you don’t need to.  It would just be another element in the audio chain to affect/mold the sound.

There are some Audio-GD models that are considered a DAC only because the output level is fixed (non-adjustable).

Given your amp only has XLR inputs, I would purchase the model that has XLR outputs. Given that the DACs are also preamps, I would try them in my system directly into the amp prior to considering the purchase of a separate pre. Otherwise I would purchase a DAC with fixed output. It may be that the Pre/DACs you are considering cn be switch to fixed output.
Thanks for the clarification auxinput - I have ordered the NFB-28.28. 
I imagine it will take some time to arrive considering it's coming from China. 

Apologies, maybe I didn't ask the right question(s) or phrase them very well. 

My current understanding of a preamp is that it will clean up the signal and boost/prepare the signal to be strong enough for further processing. Is this a correct summary? I was trying to get your technical input on what the preamp will actually do for me considering that there is already an amplifier in the speakers. What would the sound be like without the preamp?

My understanding of a DAC is that it converts the signal from digital (1s and 0s) to analogue (wave form) which is the preferred format for speakers as well as analogue being the original format of the recorded sound. Again, is this correct? What will the sound be like without a DAC? Is the integrated DAC in the NFB powerful? 

We previously discussed cables: the Bluejean cable is a coaxial cable right? Do I plug this into the TV or the Satellite box? Also, the link that you provided for the Belden 1694A Bluejean cable has different application/channel/boot colour options - what options should I be selecting to place my order?
https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/shopbycable/1694A.htm

Is a coaxial cable the best cable/connection for the preamp and TV/Satellite? Perhaps it's the only option? The reason I ask is because I'm just wondering what would I need to do if there is no coaxial input (that's spare) on the TV or Satellite box?


Essentially, a preamp is used for several things:

- As a way to switch between multiple sound sources (i.e. CD player, tape, etc.)

- Be able to provide a way to adjust volume

- Contains a circuit that has enough current to drive certain amps (sometimes digital sources do not have enough current in the analog output circuits).

 

You can add a preamp into the mix, but it is not really needed with the NFB-28.28.  The NFB already has a volume control.  You can attached multiple digital sources to the unit as well as one analog source (the IN5 RCA inputs).  The current in the NFB should be fine to drive any amp you attach.  The Yamaha studio monitors will have a preamp type circuit inside because it needs an active analog circuit for the crossover to separate the woofer amp and the tweeter amp.  In your situation, the only reason to add a preamp is if you felt the NFB was lacking in some way.  For example, if you had a CD player that was very bright/harsh sounding, you could get a tube preamp or a warm-sounding preamp to put in between.  This would further modify the analog waveforms from the DAC to calm down the sound.

Honestly, I think the sound quality of the Audio-GD is high enough that you would have to spend a lot of money on a preamp to get something better than what is already output from the NFB (like $2,000 or more).

You are correct in the understanding that a DAC converts digital data (0s and 1s) to an analog waveform.  Anything coming from satellite TV or CD or bluray is going to be transmitted in digital format, so there has to be a DAC somewhere.  Many satellite receivers have a DAC inside because you will usually see left/right analog RCA outputs, but the quality is going to be poor compared to Audio-GD.  The conversion from digital to an analog waveform is where the sound quality of the Audio-GD is superior.  The power supply and DAC / analog circuits are significantly better.  You can always get better than the NFB, but it will cost more.  Just look at the NFB-27.77.  The chassis is twice as large.  Three separate power supplies (one for digital and two for analog).  Fully balanced analog circuits.  Over twice as expensive.

It’s not that the DAC chip should be described as powerful.  You want to get a DAC that is clean/accurate.  Large capacity linear power supply, fully discrete analog circuits, good design approach, etc.

On the Blue Jean 1694A, select “Digital Audio” for the application for sure.  They use specific RCA connectors and the RCA connectors are different for other purposes (such as subwoofer, stereo, etc.).  The cable color doesn’t really matter.  I usually just get black, but you can get anything you want.  Obviously, get the “RCA/RCA” connectors.  Remember, 6 feet long (to avoid short cable signal reflections).

There might be a small chance that the satellite receive does not have COAX.  In that case, you will probably need to use a toslink digital cable.  The lifatec toslink cables are the best for the money that I know of.  The length doesn’t matter.

http://www.lifatec.com/toslink2.html

Hopefully, I’ve answered everything.

Thanks, makes sense about the preamp/DAC. Looking forward to seeing what the NFB will do. 

I checked the back of the TV and the back of the Satellite box.

The Satellite box only has two USB ports and 1 optical out. The HDMI and 2 Satellite ins are being used. 

The TV has 2 USB ports, 4 HDMI ports, 1 Satellite in, 1 optical digital audio out, and 2 ports which I’m not sure what they are - 1 says audio out/ H/P and the other says RS-232C (SVC only).

The Lifatec Toslink is an optical digital cable? It seems like this is the cable I will have to buy right? And I think it would be better to plug it into the TV as the TV is also used for Netflix not just the Satellite.