Ear candling.
The best tweaks EVER..
In audio history, thumbs-down for cable lifters, green paint for CDs, clock radios claiming to reduce RF, primitive wall-absorption panels and bass traps. Or 'soundstage-expansion' devices -like Stein Music or Synergistic's Atmosphere. Did they improve sound quality or just make small speakers sound bigger ?
Not for analog sources, a list that worked:
**CDRs/disc cleaner-polishers. Either one or both -these did good to improve the reflectivity of CD and help the laser do its job. No longer needed with file or RAM-buffer playback -although Essence's treatment might help w/ ripping and burning.
**Power cords, grounding units, balanced-power units. I'm throwing these together as they did the same ting -strip away the excess charge that accumulated near (or in) our systems. "Power conditioners" from the 90s to 2010 did no such thing (or helped in some ways but hurt in others).
-The first effective power cord was probably Custom's Top Gun ca. 2000. Many others since.
-Ground units. The first one, if it was grounding, was the Bybee-Curl device starting in the mid-90s. But its effectiveness was not certain until it improved ca. 2010. Newer entries incl. 'blocks' (and claim grounding). Euro-brands Entreq, Nordost, CAD and Vertex while the U.S. has Synergistics. Others, like Audioquest and Shunyata are grounding -but with full-sized units.
-Balanced power is even newer and seems to be *as effective* as grounding, Only a few reviews, though.
**Component noise killers (best -Bybee iQSE). Removes a large part of radiated noise inside a component -incl. RF +switching noise.
**Room tuning. The 'resonators' from ASR and Synergistics. I've personally used these for years and know of others also -all say helpful ! More recently and not quite 'tuning', Stillpoint's wall panels seem to be effective at removing harmful room reflections.
**Bass-mode breakup. About a dozen years ago, there was a corner-woofer idea -2 units time-corrected w/ DSP. This never took off, even though Kevin Voecks (of Harman/Revel) said it was a "huge breakthrough". Synergistic's newer take on bass modes, the Black Box, might be as good.
**For the 'tweako' -Teflon capacitors and better internal wiring (for passive XOs). The caps for equip, too..
**For CD players and those with BIG speakers -footers (from Stillpoints, Black Ravioli and Magico) reduced vibrations and microphony to a high degree.
Tweaks are finally working !!
Not for analog sources, a list that worked:
**CDRs/disc cleaner-polishers. Either one or both -these did good to improve the reflectivity of CD and help the laser do its job. No longer needed with file or RAM-buffer playback -although Essence's treatment might help w/ ripping and burning.
**Power cords, grounding units, balanced-power units. I'm throwing these together as they did the same ting -strip away the excess charge that accumulated near (or in) our systems. "Power conditioners" from the 90s to 2010 did no such thing (or helped in some ways but hurt in others).
-The first effective power cord was probably Custom's Top Gun ca. 2000. Many others since.
-Ground units. The first one, if it was grounding, was the Bybee-Curl device starting in the mid-90s. But its effectiveness was not certain until it improved ca. 2010. Newer entries incl. 'blocks' (and claim grounding). Euro-brands Entreq, Nordost, CAD and Vertex while the U.S. has Synergistics. Others, like Audioquest and Shunyata are grounding -but with full-sized units.
-Balanced power is even newer and seems to be *as effective* as grounding, Only a few reviews, though.
**Component noise killers (best -Bybee iQSE). Removes a large part of radiated noise inside a component -incl. RF +switching noise.
**Room tuning. The 'resonators' from ASR and Synergistics. I've personally used these for years and know of others also -all say helpful ! More recently and not quite 'tuning', Stillpoint's wall panels seem to be effective at removing harmful room reflections.
**Bass-mode breakup. About a dozen years ago, there was a corner-woofer idea -2 units time-corrected w/ DSP. This never took off, even though Kevin Voecks (of Harman/Revel) said it was a "huge breakthrough". Synergistic's newer take on bass modes, the Black Box, might be as good.
**For the 'tweako' -Teflon capacitors and better internal wiring (for passive XOs). The caps for equip, too..
**For CD players and those with BIG speakers -footers (from Stillpoints, Black Ravioli and Magico) reduced vibrations and microphony to a high degree.
Tweaks are finally working !!
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- 29 posts total
317 posts12-10-2017 11:30pmStandard fuse tweak 311 posts12-09-2017 12:34amA test, for anyone who is interested. Take a 1 1/2 inch piece of painters tape ( I use the blue Scotch 3M 1 inch width size roll ), cut this piece the long way, to get yourself a 1/2 inch wide strip, and apply it on the glass of the fuse, leaving a bit of the glass showing on each end of the fuse, and put the fuse back. Of course, make sure the equipment is off, when you are doing this, clean the ends of the fuse of fingerprints, reinsert the fuse, and listen. Keep in mind, the equipment needs to warm up ( restabilize ). Do 1 fuse at a time. Can do this on any fuse. Let me know what you hear ? And yes, I am a tweaker. mrdecibel311 posts12-09-2017 12:36amMaybe, just maybe, keep the fuse in the same direction as before removing it mrdecibel317 posts12-10-2017 11:39pmAnother tweak that works : 312 posts12-10-2017 5:13pmThere is a relatively new product called Anti Vibration Magic, which works. The painters tape mimics the same effect. A buddy of mine uses black electrical tape ( which comes in many colors ). AVM is quite expensive ( imo ), and is used by a few high end audio manufacturers, and is very popular in the diy community. A long, long time ago, I was one of the 1st ( that I knew of ) that used mortite, under the platters of direct drive tts. At that time, I had a friend who was an engineer with Nakamichi, who told me about a simple and easy tweak, that I have been doing for years ( similar to AVM ). This tweak was to use a non glue, waterproof, silicon sealant, available at your Lowes or HD ( even Walmart ), and with a tooth pick ( or something like it ), apply to areas within a component. Wiring, capacitors, circuit boards and the chassis. Caveat : MUST LET IT DRY. It is all removable, and, can be quite messy. But, incredible improvement. This can be for the same purpose as adding a piece Dynamat ( or similar product ) to the underside of a component lid, to dampen vibrations. Anyone who feels I am looney ( kosst ), I do not care. Never knock it until you try it. MrD mrdecibel312 posts12-10-2017 5:29pmIf anyone wants to try it, I use Dynaflex 230, window and door sealant, by DAP. It is available in a squeeze tube, but I purchase it in the 10.1 ounce tubes. If you purchase it in these larger tubes, you need a caulk gun, and, need to puncture a seal at the bottom of the tip ( after cutting off the tip itself ). The color does not matter, but I use clear. It comes out white, but becomes clear after it dries. I finished up a Monster Cable power thingy, and, unbelievable ( not my first conditioner ). Another thing. i DO NOT DO THIS ON ANY EQUIPMENT UNDER A MANUFACTURES WARRANY, as it would likely void it. I only dabble in the used market anyway, and, I do it to products I intend to keep.mrdecibel312 posts12-10-2017 5:40pmOne last thing. There are many parts within a component that are temperature sensitive, in other words, get hot ( transistors, resistors, transformers, tubes ), that I encourage caution. I do not apply on these, but if given room and with proper heat dissipation, certainly around them. For tubes, I recommend dampers, and not caulk ( or AVM ).mrdecibel312 posts12-10-2017 5:45pmLast thing. Certain parts within a component chassis are very heat sensitive, and require dissipation of that heat ( transistors, resistors, transformers, and some others ). Proceed with caution. I leave these components alone, but will apply around them if given the room for proper heat dissipation. Tubes, I recommend dampers, nothing more.geoffkaitmrdecibel |
- 29 posts total