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Audio Technica AT ML-180 Cartridge Advice

Just acquired an Audio Technica AT ML-180 cartridge with broken cantilever and was looking for advice on where to get a new cantilever rebuild and what material to choose from. My preference is a new Boron cantilever but was not sure who, apart from Soundsmith, offers this service.

Also would like to know which is the best tonearm to use for this cartridge once it's fixed. It can either go on my Audiomods Series 5 (eff. mass approx. 11g) or the arm on my Yamaha GT 2000 which has an effective mass of approx. 20g.

Thanks in advance.
ateal
ronco
12 posts
 
@chakster 
I understand your preference for authentic items.  Earlier in the year, I was able to score a NOS ATN15ss stylus for my AT15sa cart.  Wow!  What a detailed little beauty!  Just afterwards, I found a 1978 AT ad brochure that detailed the stylus/cantilever improvements.  Of course, AT encouraged everyone to take advantage of their suggestion.  :-)  IIRC, my AT15sa cart is an earlier model with 370 mh inductance, unlike the later 450 mh models.  Nonetheless, it ranks a very close second tier to my Signet TKs and AT 25.

@ateal

Congrats on the Tk10 acquisition.  I will be interested to read your opinion of it.  I have one TK9lca, the rest have ATN25 stylii.  So, far, I have not been able to hear a great difference between them.  Of course, the super-small 2x7 stone will not last as long as a microline, but that's why I've been stockpiling stylii.  Personally, I'd rather have a factory replacement than a sleeved and super-glued after market fix.

On a tangental note, I have fallen in love with Beryllium cantilever stylii.  Besides the ATN23a, and ATN 25, the AT15ss and AT155lc deliver such an open soundstage, as does an AT9v.  I'm listening to "LA 4  Scores!" as I type.  Might as well be in the club with them:-)

I digress.  L'Chaim to all.


ronco
12 posts
 
@ateal

BTW, if that TK10 greatly disappoints you, please give me a shout.  :-)
nandric's avatar
nandric
4,086 posts
 

Dear @ateal: forget what Raul advised you about Vdh or Northwest.

Look at your AT 180 stylus or rather cantilever. Only an aluminum

cantilever (tubed) can be glued on the restant of the original

cantilever. All present boron cantilevers are rods so the only way

to put this kind of cantilever on the restant of the old is to use

an aluminum tube as bridge between the two parts. Retip with

boron cantilever + whatever stylus cost +/-500 euro . With Raul's

and chakster advices you have no idea what to ask either of them.

How can you give whatever order to them with advices which only

assume that both retippers can do ''something'' with AT 180?

BTW the new boron cantilevers are not only rods but also thicker

than the original (tubed) boron cantilever by AT 180. Considering

the fact that an new AT 180 stylus is impossible to find not to

mention eventual price you already have the best solution possible.

But if you own whatever MC cart in need for an new stylus and/or

cantilever you can then ask both retippers for the involved price

(grin). MC's  are different animals in this context.


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rauliruegas
13,002 posts
 
Dear @ronco: The AT25 is very good performer, I spoke of it 3-4 times in the MM thread but I think that no one was interested on it. Good that you are satisfied with.

The TK10ML is too a good performer and the MK2 is even better for the motor modifications.

Btw, the stylus replacement 15ss is similar to the 20ss, diference is that the 20ss is hand selected .

@ateal, your Signet is diferent performer than your 180/150. Both very good but with differences. You was really lucky to find out that 10ML in NOS condition.

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.
ateal OP
97 posts
 
@ronco, sounds like you have a great selection of AT and Signet carts. These vintage MM's are certainly a pleasure to use. I will let you know how it compares to the AT ML180/150.

@rauliruegas, thank you so much for starting the very long and informative MM thread as it has given me the knowledge to seek out and discover these rare and wonderful MM carts. Thank you also for your advice on this thread which has been very helpful. Can I ask what were your observations of the ML180 vs the TK10ML?

@nandric, thanks for the advice on the cantilever rebuild. I agree with you that it is better to use the factory ML150 than to seek out a rebuild of the ML180 as the rebuild will no doubt add too much mass and will not reproduce the same sound as an original ML180. I guess the only way for it to sound exactly like a ML180 is to find an ML180, which I think is impossible. 

Thanks all.


   
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