I thought the same thing too but JBL knows more about this than I do.
😀
😀
Simple copper speaker terminal jumpers? Lost my originals.
Can anybody recommend simple, but good quality, copper jumpers that bridge the bi-wire terminals? I mean just the little piece of copper with the openings on each end. I see the Cardas ones, but I don't understand how you can adjust them for the distance between the terminals, as they seem to be a solid piece. Can they be bent a bit to make them fit? Any other suggestions?
The reason I'm asking is that I seem to have misplaced the original jumpers for my speakers and I found a set lying around the house that seem to have been from different speakers and don't really fit completely onto the terminal posts. Also, they look more like brass than copper. So, I'd like to try a different jumper.
Also, I currently have the cables connected to the HF terminals, but I saw on some threads here that people were connecting the cables to the LF terminals and jumping to the HF. Which do you think is better, audio-wise?
The reason I'm asking is that I seem to have misplaced the original jumpers for my speakers and I found a set lying around the house that seem to have been from different speakers and don't really fit completely onto the terminal posts. Also, they look more like brass than copper. So, I'd like to try a different jumper.
Also, I currently have the cables connected to the HF terminals, but I saw on some threads here that people were connecting the cables to the LF terminals and jumping to the HF. Which do you think is better, audio-wise?
- ...
- 31 posts total
To add to the uncertainty about which terminals to connect the speaker cables to, there is a third possibility, which a number of members have indicated they prefer. That would be to connect one of the two wires in the cable to the low frequency terminals, and the other to the high frequency terminals. That is commonly referred to as a "diagonal" configuration. Although some of the links Ghosthouse provided in his post above don’t work, I suspect the first one was intended to go to the following thread: https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/speaker-jumpers-and-hook-up-choices-question Regarding the diagonal connection possibility, I stated as follows in that thread: The diagonal configuration ... results in low frequency currents and high frequency currents each having to go through one jumper during their round-trip from the amp to the speaker and back. While when connecting both conductors to either the bottom or the top ... one of those currents would be going through two jumpers, and the other through none.Good luck. Regards, -- Al |
I believe that the main difference between jumpers lie in the contact resistance. I use Nordost teminals http://wheelstips.com/best-car-audio-battery-terminals with banana in one end and spades in the other. My speaker cables are spade terminated. That way, I avoid spade-to-spade connection which is difficult to "get rigth". Before testing new cables/jumoers, it is very important to cut back some of the old acbles and make a "fresh" connection. Otherwise the new vs. old connection will drown out any cable difference. And regarding cables, ALWAYS!!!! make the basic calculations of resistance, impedance and capacitance first, model them with the highly reactive load of our speakers and make sure that the cable is electrically suitable and doesn’t act like a filter. Even very expensive cables can do that, and then our brain can be fooled into believing that rolled-down treble equals more relaxed |
I ended up purchasing these Mogami jumpers. With the jumpers in place, I seem to have better bass impact and weight than with those cheap metal jumpers I had been using. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Mogami-Audiophile-Spade-Spade-Speaker-Jumper-Bridge-Wires-Cables-Bi-Wi... |
- 31 posts total