Newbie Looking for Advice on Streaming Music


Hello Audiogon world.

I am new to this hobby but I think it will suit me well as it looks like it is an endless pursuit of perfection of sound without ever really getting there.  I love the endless possibilities, difference in thought, technology driven aspect mixed with old school art.

I am in the process of building my first 2 channel set up and recently picked up a Primaluna Dialogue HP and a pair of Sonus Faber Chameleons for starters.

Im looking to stream music from Tidal to the new equipment as simple as possible without compromising sound as much as I possibly can (budget permitting of course)

I have been doing some research and I must say this part of the equation is rather confusing with a lot of technical speak that gets brought into the discussion which is a bit overwhelming for a newbie trying to soak it all in.

Do I need to purchase a high quality DAC?
Can I just buy a streaming box like the Paradigm PW Link or Def Tech W Adapt and hook it into the Primaluna?
Do I go with the Halide Design DAC HD D/A Converter from computer straight into Primaluna?
I also read about the wyred4sound modified Sonos Connect.  Does that plus into a DAC or straight into Amp?

Apologies for all the newbie questions.  I did try searching and doing some research but found myself getting confused.  If someone could help me clear up what I will need that will set me on the path to researching the best value for my budget for each component I will need to accomplish my goals of streaming my music from Tidal.

Thanks in advance.  I think this will be a fun hobby!

Don

donblackie
@willemj 

It was a toss up for me between the oppo sonica and the PS Audio Jr
What are your thoughts pros/cons on the jr?


One avenue to take is getting a Sonos connect off of craigslist to get a bump start, plug that strait into primaluna .  There are about 3 on Denver craigslist from $175 -$250, they should be easy to find about anywhere.  That will get you bump started streaming red book quality (16/48 ).  This will give you time to survey the landscape.  You can upgrade the power cable on the Connect and add a good coax digital cable and still be in for low investment.   Lots of good used DACS on the market so you can start rolling DACS while you still have the Connect.   Then when you find a DAC you like you can upgrade the Connect with the Wyred4Sound mods or dump (Connect) and jump to the Bluesound or something else.  Depending on you music taste you might take a look at Deezer and compare to Tidal.  Deezer has a very large library of world music vs Tidal. I ran both Tidal and Deezer for a bit and decided on Deezer because the large library.

Note: I have not seen the interfaces on other products but the interface and application for the Sonos products is top notch.  Support is good as well.  I had an issue with dropped connections and Sonos had me run a diag utility within the application.  I then called them back and they analyzed the output and detected some disturbance at the bridge.  I moved the bridge just a short distance and it cleared the problem.  
I have no views on the PS Audio Jr other than that it is pretty pricey. I have not seen any proper tests with measurements done with serious lab gear like from Audio Precision. The currently best one on that is probably the Benchmark DAC3.
By and large I don't believe there are many meaningful sonic differences between well designed electronics, whatever the subjectivists on this forum want to believe. If there are differences, they are not necessarily for the better (e.g tube sound). The straight wire with gain criterion was met ages ago with solid state amplification, and I am increasingly inclined to believe that the same is now true for DACs. I am using the analogue output of the Chromecast Audio, and cannot hear any issues, even on a revealing system with Quad electrostats. Even if there may be a slight sonic degradation playing 16/44, it must be small, and I am also pretty sure that relatively affordable DACs like the Sonica, the Pioneer U-05 or the Teac UD-501 are as good as it can get. If you look at the measurement data for such DACs, you can see that frequency response, distortion and noise levels are mostly quite a bit better than for amplifiers, so they are not an problem. Electronic perfection has become pretty cheap, and there is nothing more perfect than perfect, given human hearing limitations. Those who believe they can hear differences between electronics are never able to repeat their insights under controlled conditions.
With electronics the three things that really matter are:
1 matching gain structure to avoid clipping. An example is the 2.0 Volt rca output of many digital sources and the too sensitive line inputs of many amplifiers.
2 insufficient power to prevent output clipping in dynamic music. In a largish room a few hundred watts per channel will do no harm.
3 load independent flat frequency response. Real speakers have varying impedances along the frequency spectrum, and some amplifiers' frequency response is far from flat under such realistic conditions (see the graphs in Stereophile - the audible limit of non-flatness is about 0.2 dB). Many tube amplifiers are very bad at this, hence their individual sonic signature, which is nothing other than an engineering shortcoming.
This is not to say that audio systems cannot be improved, but the weak links are the speakers, with their far bigger deviations from the flat frequency response, and much higher distortion that we would accept from any piece of electroncis. Finally, there is the issue of room interaction. Look at any in room response graphs and you will be horrified.
The more power the better, and solid state amps usually perform rather better/more neutral under real speaker loads (see the graphs in Stereophile). Beefy solid state power amps do not need to cost an arm and a leg.

This is how I felt, until I was introduced to SET high-power tube amps. My reference I used at trade shows and for voicing was a pair of 600-1000W JC-1 Parasound monoblocks. Very low output impedance and obviously high power. Almost needing two power cords each. Also runs class A for 25W.

Then I modded a prototype pair of point-to-point wired SET TUBE monoblocks that output 35W each.

The SET tubes outperform the high-powered SS in every way, from high-frequency extension to dynamics to bass extension and tightness. And of course the midrange is more beautiful.

Steve N.

Empirical Audio

By and large I don't believe there are many meaningful sonic differences between well designed electronics, whatever the subjectivists on this forum want to believe. If there are differences, they are not necessarily for the better (e.g tube sound). The straight wire with gain criterion was met ages ago with solid state amplification, and I am increasingly inclined to believe that the same is now true for DACs.

If it were only true, you could get the best DAC on the market for $500.  Reviewers would not be giving rave reviews to ladder DACs that cost $10K+ and then buy them for themselves.

The thing that motivates people to believe that most DACs sound the same is that the sources that are feeding them have so much jitter.  Take the transport for instance:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=154408.0

or a Sonos Connect:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=154310.0

And then add a S/PDIF coax cable:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=154425.0

If these sources are not reclocked, there will be enough jitter to mask most differences between DACs.

Add in an inexpensive active preamp, and you have additional distortion, compression and noise that will mask the rest.

The good news is that a good reclocker like the Synchro-Mesh can fix this.  Also, replacing your active preamp with a good transformer passive linestage like this one will eliminate the active preamp contribution:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Teramoto-FINEMET-Premium-Transformer-Volume-Control-TVC-Custom-Seiden-Switch/200870484580?hash=item2ec4d05a64:m:mjVP51UdQVY9HM6HVvGv3RQ

Every DAC has a different sonic signature.  I have been to enough trade shows over 15 years to know this for a fact.  And perfect measurements means little.  The current measurement suite doesn't quantify dynamic response or jitter properly.  New measurement techniques are needed for both of these metrics. This is why I'm doing the measurements above, direct jitter measurements.

Steve N.

Empirical Audio