Binding Post Jumpers - New Product!!!

Fair enough, lads, we call them as we see (or hear them.)  

Yping, your post above poses an excellent subjective question, but rather nonsensically.  Your caveat "if money is no object" pushes aside the whole issue of quality/performance vs. value.  That makes as much sense as asking if I would prefer a Rolls Royce over my Mazda.  Likely I would, but money is intrinsically part of the decision-making process.  I believe that there are connectors of similar design and quality to the KLE connectors I bought and sent back that are available for a tiny fraction of the cost of the KLE connectors.   The KLE connectors may or may not sound much better, but does their sonic improvement justify their price compared to the alternatives available at a small fraction of the price of the KLE connectors?  I do not know for a certainty where the KLE connectors are manufactured, but I could could make a very educated guess.  I also have a very good idea of their cost of production and can find no justification for the price of the KLE connectors I received, which are the only ones upon which I can comment.   

I have not asserted that the KLE connectors did not sound excellent.  My beef was with the quality of their construction and workmanship relative to their cost.   I reject the conventional audio wisdom that the more expensive a component or piece of gear is, the better is performs.  The $120 fuses that are spoken of so highly on this forum are a prime example.  Or the silly aluminum dots that are glued to walls, purported to enhance the sound of one's system.  I want to inform audio lovers to consider value when they make their purchases because "money is always an object".  

The OP said nothing about "value."
He simply identified a product he thought would probably " live up to their (i.e., KLE's) stellar reputation" although he has not tried them.

If you want the lowest price option and the best sonic result (i.e., the best value), simply remove your binding posts (most dual sets of posts are attached to a plate of some sort so remove the entire plate), and then either,
1. Solder (or connect with ring terminals) all of the positive internal hook up wires to ONE of the positive binding posts and all of the negative internal hook-up wires to the corresponding negative post so you can then use only one set of binding posts with your single wire cables, or
2. Solder (or connect with ring terminals) two very short pieces of high quality wire between the two binding posts, positive to positive and negative to negative, which leaves both sets of binding posts "hot" while negating the need for jumpers

A third option is as grannyring suggests, to solder or crimp your speaker cables directly to the internal hook-up wires, thereby bypassing any binding posts.

@grannyring - re:

I have some coming in to test vs Neotech and bare wire. I will report back. Will be interesting.

Would that be the Jumpers (which I have not tried)
- or the Banana plugs - see my review here...

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/how-much-difference-could-a-simple-banana-plug-make

Either way - I would be interested in your observations.

Cheers - Steve

The banana plugs. I am going to add them to the wiring harness going from the outboard crossovers to my Living Voice speakers.  I use a Duelund bare wire right now. 

@grannyring I'll be interested in reading your thoughts after the break-in process ;-)!