Recent retip(canti also) Dude where did my soundstage width go

Well, your assuming I can't or that just because somebody goes the route I have they can't. Thats quite a leap. I like to tweak what I have getting the most out I can and this goes for other things in life also. Not to knock anybody else's consumer consumption.  I really like my cart and if this baby doesn't open up more I will replace it with exactly the same one and chock it up to a valuable learning experience. Peace out invictus.

fourwinds,  Just to clarify, azimuth is NOT about channel balance.  It is about crosstalk, the degree to which L channel information leaks into the R channel, and vice-versa.  This phenomenon has a lot to do with the illusion of stage width that the system can convey.  I've never owned nor played with the Foz, but it does seem that many end users use it incorrectly (either that or many units are faulty) so as to end up with inaccurate azimuth adjustment and therefore poor crosstalk characteristics, which leads to a narrow sound stage.  I have read, for one thing, that the battery in the Foz needs to be kept fresh at all times, for accurate readings.  But if the Foz is telling you that your azimuth has to be tilted way off of top dead center (top surface of cartridge or headshell at a 90 degree angle to the LP surface), then I suspect it's readout is not trustworthy.

Just for fun, you might try setting your azimuth to 90 degrees empirically (see above), ignoring the Foz.  Then have a listen.

By the way, radical changes in azimuth have little effect on channel balance and adjusting azimuth is not the way to "fix" channel imbalance.

Setup may be your problem.

I have read that it is not correct to equalize crosstalk, especially for premium cartridges. If memory serves, SoundSmith writes most convincingly of this. I set up optically, then use a well modulated (loud) NM record that distorts on one channel, and adjust until the distortion goes away. Then I listen for distortion on the other channell.

I also get precise about mounting torque. I use a German torque screwdriver. 

Lewm, thanks for the heads up on a difference between crosstalk and channel imbalance. I did eventually do just as you suggested and set cart by eye and used the Foz to get left and right readings off the test record as close as I could before the tedium wore through me. I achieved it by aligning cartridge in head shell with the lines of the Feikert and then checking with Foz output readings. This not the way it's supposed to be used but it makes sense that if the cantilever is not dead on there will be a channel imbalance or is it crosstalk, I'm not clear on that. I concur on the battery needing to be fresh it makes a difference. 

At this moment I do hear a change in regards to stage width especially when I turn it up. I was wondering if stylus profile is behind the wider presentation of my Grado. Anyhoo all is now much more clear above where I would usually stop on the volume knob. This is really allowing the music to fill up my space. Is the crosstalk right - I've long thought my room played a role in a perceived imbalance. Maybe it's been cross talk and an improperly aligned cantilever(?) or azimuth. I can say the width is coming and along with it a joy. I'm having to get up way to quick to flip a side or change a record. Good stuff. 

@terry9 
Thanks for your input. 
is is there a correct amount of torque to put on head shell screws? Do you remember where you saw the soundsmith article?

back to the music

@fourwnds 

Yes, there is a correct torque, which is pretty much dependent on your cartridge model. Start at the low end and increase by 0.02Nm to optimize.  I'm taking this from a posting by a Linn engineer, who said something like:
Plastic bodies: about 0.2 Nm
Metal mounts: 0.4 to 0.6.
These seem to be dry figures. I prefer to very lightly lube the nuts - if you are certain they are lubed, it's too much. Just a tiny bit of lubrication makes the whole process smoother and more repeatable, and hence, more accurate. 

For lightly lubed nuts, reduce the torque by 1/3. Thus my own results were: Koetsu RSP 0.32 Nm, and Mayajima Zero (which is all wood) 0.25.

Try the SoundSmith site for the article.

Good luck!