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Koetsu Blue Lace Onyx vs. Coralstone

wondering if anyone has had the opportunity to compare these 2 cartridges?

would also like to know if anyone feels the "diamond cantilever" to be a worthwhile upgrade?!

any insights appreciated...
11flat6
nicknick
14 posts
 
My dealer who has heard all Koetsu told me the only differences btw diamond & standard boron cantilever are marginally faster, better dynamic range & better bass definition. Guess you can always opt for diamond cantilever when your Coralstone need a re-tip in the future. I originally aimed for a standard Blue Lace but lost my mind when he demonstrated a diamond cantilever during audition, bastard!!  Mind you, koetsu are much less expensive outside USA so I paid nowhere near the published US retail price.
mulveling's avatar
mulveling
2,125 posts
 
@nicknick
Awesome. And yep, I agree that the US prices are insane lol. Koetsu are actually a good deal in other places. I’ll definitely consider the diamond cantilever when it’s time for a rebuild in a couple years...or maybe much sooner on my Jade!

Enjoy your awesome cartridge!
terry9
2,354 posts
 
@mulveling 

Sorry for the delay - installed my air-gap phono/pre, and now have a very good idea of preferred loading.

After the 1931Ag Lundahl's (set at 8 x step-up gain), I am loading the input between 2K and 3K (nude Vishay's), and 0 pF capacitance. This corresponds to a cartridge loading of 25R to 40R, according to the factory rep's website (K&K Audio).

That said, my room is a real bear, and it just eats up low frequency signal; an LF black hole, if you will. So, if I ever get the room tamed, or build a new one, I may well like a higher resistive loading.

That's the KRSP/dc, air bearing arm, air bearing TT.
mulveling's avatar
mulveling
2,125 posts
 
@terry9
Thanks! For a taste of something different last night, I switched back to my stage’s onboard LL1931, and I have to admit they definitely bring some extra transparency and detail to the table vs. the CineMags. I lose some warmth and bloom from the CineMag, but I’m beginning to think maybe that’s not as accurate. Of course I can also eliminate that extra IC, two connection points, and I have 5 loading options only when using the onboard LL.

I ended up really liking the Coralstone loaded at a net 50 ohms, vs the higher settings (75, 125), and can go down to 25 next time I try. But 50 ohms was sounding extremely well balanced in my system. This phono stage also loads the secondary with nude Vishays. However ,I have the LL1931 set at 16x gain. Any reason why you chose 8x over 16x? 16x helps keep the noise floor dead quiet in my system.
terry9
2,354 posts
 
@mulveling 

I use 8x because I constructed my phono stage so that the volume control is identically the gain control on the output stage, so there is no wasted amplification. The gain control usually sits between a gain of 50 and 150 (plus the 8x contribution from the Lundahls).

Since the volume control consists of a rotary switch selecting different nude Vishays (not a ladder), the gain is not compromised in any respect, and the output is black at 8x. Since I suspect that distortion is an increasing function of gain, even in Lundahls, I leave the Lundahls at their floor.

Those Vishays sure do keep the circuit quiet, and complementary aerospace MATxy don't hurt either.
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