How much do I need to spend to get a preamp that sounds better than no preamp?

The best active buffer with or without gain, is going to generate distortions and noise, no matter how good it is.

Nelson Pass back that up when hes says:

" A “passive preamp” - just an input selector and a volume control.

What could be better? Hardly any noise or distortion added by these simple passive parts. No feedback, no worrying about what type of capacitors – just musical perfection.

And on his hybrid Passive/Active preamp:

" The only component in the signal path is wire and switch contacts.
At positions below 3 o’clock, the volume control functions as a precision passive attenuator using discrete resistor ladders.
Above 3 o’clock, active gain is added to the output signal in 2 decibel increments, for a maximum of 10 dB.
As a result, you SUFFER the effects of active circuitry only when additional gain is necessary."

Cheers George

Honashagen, With the L1, initially you need to set the gain control half way up (12 o clock) as recommended by the mfg and go from there. Also if you want to increase dynamics, the McCormack is not that bass heavy, certainly not Krell-like. You have two pairs of outputs on the L1, why not use one pair for an active subwoofer, just make sure it is a musical sub with tight and tuneful bass.

You mentioned components you used to own like the Crown and how you remembered you liked the presentation a lot. Let me say this, each and every time I revisited older components that I used to be fond of, I left disappointed and it turned out that what I currently have was superior. If you were to sell the upgraded McCormack and AI preamp there would be an over wehlming response from buyers as these two components are not seen for sale lately.

I am not sure why I have decided to post on this thread but I figured maybe something I had to say might add some value. I really don’t care why someone might prefer added gain in their system and who might not. Go check out this thread and figure out it where I come from:

http://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/lightspeed-attenuator-best-preamp-ever?highlight=best%2Bpreamp%2Bever

I will say this and let the rest of you go off on your tangents. For my digital set up I have had the best results with a source direct to amp (Resolution Audio Cantata to Music Reference RM-10 or RM-200) or the Lightspeed Attenuator in between numerous digital sources to those same two amplifiers, plus a few others. The Lightspeed is my favorite of a bunch of passive preamps I have owned (this includes The Truth - actually an active buffer, Slagle, and others). It’s been in my systems for about 8 years now. I have even used it successfully in analog set ups.

Now on that note I will say for analog the extra gain can be helpful, although if there is a way I would readily opt out. In addition to vinyl I play analog reel tape. For those sources I use an Atma-Sphere MP-3 active linestage with RIAA and IEC/CCIR 15IPS EQ. I also use a Beveridge RM 1 with RM 2 power supply, a DeHavilland tape head preamp (IEC/NAB EQ), and a Music Reference RIAA and IEC/CCIR 15 IPS phono/tape head preamp. In addition to the previously mentioned amps I have Atma-Sphere and Music Reference OTL amps that I use with both the analog and digital sources. I have a bunch of other stuff too since I biamp. Can’t wait until I get my direct drive amps for my ESLs. Game over as far as I’m concerned.

I am here to tell you it all works and sounds great in my system whether I am going fully balanced, fully single ended, or mixed. The biggest thing I am concerned with is the amp/speaker interface. My speakers are either ESLs (57s, Music Reference, Acoustat Model 2 - modified by Roger Modjeski) or Spendor 1/2e. With all I have to work with I have no issues finding the right match. My advice is obviously go with what you feel sounds best, but if it were me and all I listened to were digital, direct from source to amp or a passive between the two is the way I would go and I would take care to ensure there would be no impedance or cable artifacts coloring the sound (not really hard to do if you think about it).

direct drive amps for my ESLs.

Yes yes now your talking clio09 , I would like to do this myself on my Monoliths, have all the right tubes, tranny’s ect, but it’s dangerous to own such a amplification/speaker wire weapon.
Like the 805 set monoblocks I built with 900v on the top cap, definable no beers and a good night sleep before doing any bench work on them, lethal.

Cheers George