Floor standing speaker isolation advice needed.


I have an older pair of KEF Reference Model Twos that currently sit on their brass(?) feet on the floor. The floor is tile but not solid cement underneath. I bought two .5" thick granite tiles for underneath the speakers and am wondering if I need to do anything else like put the spikes on the brass feet, add sorbothane under the granite tiles and/or under the brass feet or something else I should be considering? Things sound good on the top end but seem a bit subdued/muddy in the bass region. The KEFs are being driven by a Parasound Halo A23 and I’ve got a HSU VTF-3 MK 2 helping out the bass, mostly for movie duty.


Thanks for any advice.
asahitoro
I’m high on mass-on-spring isolation devices which have become ubiquitous. In the beginning there was Bright Star, Vibraplane, Townsend and yours truly. It’s like walking a tightrope or a razor blade trying to balance all the variables - internal damping, spring rate, number of directions of isolation and load capacity and of course cost. I eschew getting rubber but I suppose a little bit can’t hurt much, and too much slows things down too much. For myself I forego all rubber and almost all internal damping, preferring very hard cones, high carbon springs, high mass and extremely stiff boards.
@jriggy Whilst you may see improvement by trying out different stands with the Hatbeths don't forget that they are probably the most advanced speakers ever built when it comes to controlling resonances.

Everything from driver material, driver mounting, and panel resonances has been meticulously considered by the designer. In fact the designer, Alan Shaw once said that you could place them on a stack of telephone directories if you so wished and they would still sound good.

I'm sure he's right. I just wish all speakers were designed and built with such care.
@cd318, thanks for the reminder. While  choosing my stand solution and height, I have the speakers up on wood frame w/ granite platform amp stands. There were sorbothane ‘half-ball’ pads Gibbon under the granite—bad!
So I replaced with hardwood blocks—much better!
Then one step farther, was raising the speakers off the amp stand surface with 1 & 1/2 inch wood blocks at corners only—even better! Letting the bottom of the M40’s breath freely, like the TonTrager stands achieve, does seem to benefit... so with this finding, your reminders, and geoffkait’s comments on rubber (which is where my concern was), I think I’ll forego the IsoAcoustics Modular stands for these particular speakers. 
@jriggy Yes, you shouldn’t need fancy stands but it definitely a good idea to let all the speaker panels breathe freely. All Harbeths are constructed that way to allow the resonances to fall below the threshold of hearing in terms of frequency range.

The M40s have always been fantastic speakers and are the sum of one man’s attempt at getting as close to neutrality in the midband as possible with the fewest compromises. Does any speaker do voices better?

My best advice to the OP, keeping it cost effective and simple, is not to overwhelm yourself by trying to many things, in to many combinations. Using what you have, first try the individual items you have - by themselves. Listen and compare and if none of the products, by themselves - spikes, sorbothane, granite slabs, etc - brings the sound back to what it was when coupled to the cement with spikes, then try what you have in simple combinations. Usually the simplest solution ends up being the best solution....Jim