Replacing fuse


Would replacing an 6.3A SLO BLO fuse with an 8 SLO BLO fuse be ok? Thanks for any information.
john421
Hmmm. So you want to buy a fuse on sale, save a few bucks and as a result burn your house down ... makes a whole lot of sense! 

Don't put in the wrong fuse -- the warranty is immediately void, and you create an electrical risk

It will work ... but the fuse isn't doing the job it's intended
 Don't buy those nonsense high end rip off uses. Just go to your local electronic store and buy quality fuses for a couple of bucks. I went down the hi-fi tuning Road and blew some of those that shouldn't have blown. 
analogluvr
Don’t buy those nonsense high end rip off uses.

>>>>Give me an F. Give me a U.

Your fuses blew, if that story is even true which it’s probably not, because you didn’t pay enough for them. Problem solved.
While many here have and would disagree with me, aside from the potential warranty issue I wouldn’t worry too much about substituting an audiophile-oriented fuse having a current rating 27% higher than the original. For two reasons:

1) There have been numerous reports here in recent years of various audiophile-oriented fuses blowing when they shouldn’t have. From at least 8 different members that I can recall in the case of SR fuse threads alone. Which suggests to me that the unspecified melting points of many of these fuses may be significantly lower than their current ratings would suggest. (Melting point is commonly specified by major manufacturers such as Littelfuse and Cooper Bussmann in terms of amperes-squared x seconds, but I don’t recall ever seeing such a spec being provided by a manufacturer of audiophile-oriented fuses).

I don’t recall previously seeing reports about false blows in the specific case of HiFi Tuning fuses, but as a member for whom I have great respect I certainly have zero doubt as to the veracity of Analogluvr’s statement.

2) Another reason for my relative lack of concern about the 27% rating increase is that it’s not an exact science. I would expect that the designer analyzes and/or measures the current draw of the component under worst case operating conditions, and also the magnitude and duration of the "inrush" current surge that occurs at turn-on, and chooses the current rating and melting point of the fuse by applying what seems to him or her to be a comfortable margin relative to those numbers. Another designer might very conceivably choose a somewhat different margin.

IMO. As I said, many others here have and would make reasonable arguments to the contrary.

Regards,
-- Al
I guess my concern is that the OP is clearly a neophyte to fuses and uncomfortable with the whole process, so the safest advice is to stick with the rated fuse

My own experience with SR fuses is that they do tend to blow on start up so I as a rule go "one size up" which would be the 8A for 6.3A, but I do this eyes open and well aware of the risks I am taking.

I think to recommend this for someone who is making a decision based on stock on hand and saving a few $ is the wrong advice. Most likely you'll not have any issues agreed but why risk it?

There are of course those who swear by bypassing the fuses completely ...