Do electrolytic caps need burn in?


I tried swapping a pair of amp/preamp line output coupling capacitors (DC blocking).  The stock units were run of the mill Panasonic electrolytic.  I put in Mundorf Mlytic AG.  I know this particular Mundorf (and most large electrolytics) are for power supply use, but the application calls for a large 6800uF so that the system can be used as a small amp or preamp.  Since I'm using the unit mostly as a preamp, I guess I could go about 1/10 the size and try to use a film cap.. but anyways, that is besides the point.

The question here is, do electrolytics (specifically this Mundorf) need burn in?  I ask because I'm hearing the opposite of what most people hear on caps that are not adequately burned in.  The usual complaints with caps without proper burn in are lack of bass, shrill highs, etc.  The Mundorfs have increased the bass output and possibly added some texture to the mids (the good), but the highs have disappeared.  I'm wondering if the highs will come back over time?  I wouldn't say the top is rolled off, but it is just shelved.  Any details that are carried in the upper frequencies is obscured and recessed.  The life of the sound has been sucked out.  Hopefully this doesn't qualify as "audiophile" tuned warm sound.

I have considered putting a small Russian teflon cap in parallel to the Mundorf, but the values I have are too small to probably make a difference (820pF).  I also don't think this bypass should be required to get nominal levels of treble in the first place.

I've got about 5hrs on the caps now, and they sound exactly the same as time 0.  So are the Mundorf's going to open up the highs with time, or should I just move on to another cap?  I will try the bypass before I throw in the towel on the Mundorf.  The point of reference is the stock Panasonic caps, which are fairly neutral, with good top end extension and detail.
manthik
I have always found the first listen after any change to be a solid indication of what you will end up with. Yeah, burn-in helps but I have NEVER found an initial impression to change from fair to awesome.
Sorry for the slow reply guys.  I see there are differing viewpoints as to how to properly form an electrolytic capacitor.  I have done some slow rate power cycling, but that didn't really help either.  However, I didn't do much, and I'm not sure how much would be required.  I basically have hours and cycles on the caps now, and there wasn't any appreciable change in the top registers.  Nothing magically changed.  I might have to concur with @noromance on this.  I have heard profound differences with certain tube burn-in in certain gear though, so I'm fully open to the fact that sound can and does change once properly run in.  

Anyways, I added a 3.3uF poly cap (Panasonic WF series) in parallel with the big Mundorf electro just to see what would happen.  All the highs came right back.  Night and day difference.  Almost seemed like the bass is less pronounced too, but I wasn't able to tell yet.  After about an hour of listening, my DIY power source for my front end components crapped out.  So, it will be a couple weeks before I am back online and can add more impressions.  I think this is going to be trial and error based adjustment.
After sorting through all the choices, I finally settled on a huge pair of polypropylene 1000uF caps made for commercial power supply applications (solar power).  I found them cheap on ebay.  I got them custom mounted.  All the highs and the details are there.  Very well balanced cap.

The shunt film cap on the large EL never worked over the long term.  Over time, the combined cap would sound more like the EL cap (I think the film caps I was using were still burning in).  Also, the film cap values were too small relative to the EL cap to make a difference in the long run.  As one might expect, no EL cap can stand up to a good film, and that goes for all of the best.  For EL caps, I tried Mundorf, Elna Silmic II, Nichicon, etc.
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